Metal advice needed

I need to make some replacement things for my tractor. They are pins with a tab on them, and then the pin holds a larger pin in its socket.
It is formed of a piece of 3/8x1 Flat Bar, with a piece of cold rolled 3/8 rod welded to that. The 3/8" rod will be about 2" long.
I can weld it with stick, flux core, or wirefeed with gas.
What would be the best way to weld it, what rod, and then afterward, should I heat it up and let it cool, heat it up, and quench, or hit it with a ball peen hammer at the weld?
It really does not take any stress during operation, just keeps the 1"+ pin in place.
Steve
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Steve, you're over-engineering. It's just a friggin' lynch pin. Go buy a whole double-handful of them at Tractor Supply for $10. They'll even come with snap-lock rings to automagically hold them in place without any extra baling wire. The ring also serves as a handle to turn and pull them when they get sticky in the hole.
You can make better use of your time running your bush hog than making lynch pins!
IF your time value doesn't matter, just stick them together with whatever method is handy, including brazing or O/A welding, and after defluxing, either paint them or don't. You don't have to heat treat a part that's under zero mechanical stress. Weather will eat them up faster than wear.
Lloyd
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Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

Lloyd , I think maybe you missed Steve's whole point . Just a WAG on my part , but ...
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Must have! I sure don't see any point in spending $5.00 to make an 80-cent part.
LLoyd
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On 7/7/2014 5:17 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

I throw away NOTHING. I can scrounge up the parts, probably paid for five times over from different T&M jobs. A round trip to town is sixty miles, and at 15 mpg or so, I come up with $16. Plus, I could make some in less time than I'd spend out dodging uninsured impaired drivers in the 110 degree desert balm.
Steve
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On 7/7/2014 3:42 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

I'll post a picture, as it is in a place where just a common pin won't work, I believe. Maybe it will, or someone will have another alternative or part number. There are a number of these keepers on the tractor, so yes, I would like to just go buy a handful of them.
Today, I have to go to the cabin and change the kitchen faucet, and some motion lights. Will post this evening or tomorrow.
Steve
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They also have a sort of pin that looks a little like a large thumb screw. It has a round shank with a flat on one side and a keeper ball at the end, and an oval flat tang on the end so you can grasp it with thumb and a couple of fingers.
I can't think of many places where you couldn't fit a regular lynch pin, even if the bail wouldn't lock around the end of the pin -- but these don't have the bail, so they might fit better.
Still only a $1.50 or $2.00 each, even with the two moving parts (ball and spring).
Lloyd
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PS... you might also consider some short eye bolts, as being similar to what you have to make, maybe even with a nyloc nut on the other end to keep them from working loose.
Lloyd
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On 7/7/2014 3:42 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

Lloyd, Lloyd, Lloyd. How many people here go out in their shop, and spend hours building 1/8" widgets in their 12" jawwed cnc lathe? Well, in this group, not a lot, most are curmudgeons or political nutjobs. But there are still a few people who don't mind taking a break from SWMBO or Nancy Grace, and going to the man cave and making some chips. I would like to believe that there are still a few here who do make thinguses from spare parts and junk, rather than go buy overpriced Chinese crap, or find it difficult to make it to the store, or just find some of these exotic parts from out of production motors hard to find.
I do manage my time, but at times, find it worth the time and effort to just go out there, and make one like Dad would have done. My time is valuable, and I am a very important man, but not to that degree. If I ever reach that stage, I think a rethinking would be in order.
YMM(and probably does)V
Steve
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Just use 1018 steel and any welding process you like. Parts are soft non-heat treated steel so they hold the pin without cracking or breaking, might get beat up a bit but it don't matter. Remove 333 to reply. Randy
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SteveB wrote:

Zing ! or was that Whoosh ? Good one Steve , it went right over the heads of at least a couple of folks .
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If the wire is already in the machine then MIG would be my first choice because of speed and looks. Then flux core, then 7018 or 7014. 7018 or 7014 because they look better than 6011. Eric
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On 7/7/2014 7:47 AM, snipped-for-privacy@whidbey.com wrote:

I love 7014, but to get any kind of a vee in there between the two parts, I find it difficult to get a good solid weld in a short space. I end up with slag inclusions, or burnthrough, or just slag. Yes, I will probably do it with .035" E70-S-6 and 75/25 mixed gas. Gives a nice appearance, but one must do root preparation, or get a cold lap weld.
Steve
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Steve, if "pretty" is the goal, braze it.
Easy, fast, and the nicest-looking weldment you'll get between any two pieces of metal. Plenty strong.
Lloyd
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On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 15:58:33 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"

Particularly if you drill the big peice to pretty well slip fit the round bar in - and sweat braze it. No need for a fillet braze in the application- particularly if all you are doing is holding the pin in the hole. You can make a very solid and almost invisible joint.
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On 7/7/2014 5:17 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Would that be a flux coated rod, and getting it hot enough to flow like a solder joint? That sounds pretty nice. The hardest part would be getting the hole drilled in the flatbar.
Steve
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..3/8" rod...
Is acetylene a good/better choice for welding small parts? -jsw
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That's the idea. Flux the hole. Flux coated rod. Heat it up and apply spelter - it will suck into the hole like a kid with a milkshake.
Drill press makes short work of the hole.
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wrote:

Hmm. Interesting. I'll have to get some brazing rod and try that with my little HF tigger. I hadn't thought to braze with a TIG.
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It's just a torch, Larry. A damned clean one, without any hydrogen or carbon in the flame.
Lloyd
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