Yeah, I do recall seeing something about 10 ohms on the back of it. Someone was throwing it out and it looked lonely so I took it in....
Yeah, I do recall seeing something about 10 ohms on the back of it. Someone was throwing it out and it looked lonely so I took it in....
I looked for spec.'s down in a corner etc. nothing found. I could open it up and measure the resistance but that won't give me the sensitivity.
Unless I find someone that can rebild the meter I think this thing is going into the scrap bin.
Thanks everyone. Bill K7NOM
Sam Goldwasser tells us how he repaired one....
Maybe you can too.
Rwemember, you can only succeed as far as you dare to fail, Bill. :-)
I tore into my son's cell phone this afternoon and managed to get its erratic keyboard working fine again by cleaning out what looked like dried up Pepsi in the key contact area.
Read this description by Goldwasser, he who repairs everything electronic, and maybe you'll have a go at fixin' it. (Or maybe not....)
Thanks for that link. I am considering trying to do some thing like Sam's fix. My meter is different so the repair jig will be different. Sam questions the calibration and that is my concern also but with care it should be close. The danger is I might make things worse, and before I do that I would like to make sure there was no "Expert" repair available.
Thanks Bill K7NOM
I'm afrain you're wrong on that one Paul. Every low current taut band meter I've ever seen makes the coil connections through the front and rear bands.
When you think about it, there'd be very little reason to bother with a couple of hairsprings when those bands are sitting right there, just asking to be used as conductors.
The coils should still be ok, unless the band is gone
It likely is, from playing fuse for more current than it could take.
Jeff
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