Motor electrical question

Apr 28, 2015 22 Replies

Yes

I don't think so, because of the large currents that I am measuring.

...

The temperature sensor is on the side of the motor. There could be circuitry that reads it on the board, but I do believe that it does overheat, from the currents I measure.

No - I haven't let it run very long.

The vac plus the connected load can't exceed 12A. Maybe the sensor on the motor is a switch that interrupts both & its limit is 12A.

The neighbor has experienced shut-off with no connected load.

I've never felt very strongly that the bearings are the problem - they just don't seem tight enough to cause that much draw (5.6A on low speed vs 2.9 spec'ed). But it was the only thing that I thought of.

Another thing that I just thought of was damaged field winding. I.e., adjacent turns shorted, reducing the field, and drawing more current. I don't know if that makes sense, if it ever happens, or how to test for it.

The motor-fan unit has fragile fans pressed on both ends, has a housing that is glued or heat-welded together, and is just not going to be explored. I'm about ready to pull the plug and have the neighbor order a new one.

Bob

Have you got a scope that you could look at the waveform with? I've been wondering right along how accurate your ampmeter is when measuring this type of waveform. I know you said it was a Fluke with RMS but...

The manual mentions that too light of an extension cord could cause problems. It also mentions that they make both 50 and 60 hz models. Any chance it might be a 50 hz unit? Followed your neighbor in from some foreign country maybe...

Harbor Freight has their Infrared Temperature Gun on sale right now with coupon for $25.99. Just in case you are wondering how hot the motor gets ;-)

formatting link

I bought one a while back, same price with coupon. It works okay, nothing special. I wanted to measure how hot my front wheel hubs were getting on my truck. Was afraid I might have a caliper dragging...

Used it for other odds and ends since then.

One of these days I'll tear it apart. Suspect it may be capable of doing some other things too but doesn't have the switches or something. The most annoying thing about it is the default is Centigrade readings. You have to switch it to Fahrenheit every time you use it. Centigrade is okay, but I just don't think that way...

A 50 hz unit will run fine on 60 - just a bit faster. Running a 60 on

50 will cause problems (or at least very likely would) %0 hz needs more iron than 60.

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required