nail guns (ballistic hammer?) -- question

double side tape

Good luck getting the architect to "approve " the shop drawings. On the shops that I get back from the architect, the rubber stamp just says "Reviewed", "Rejected", "Revise and resubmit" or "Furnish as corrected". There is a check box by each. The text has a disclaimer "The contractor is responsible for: selecting the fabrication process and techniques of construction yada yada yada. No one wants to stick their necks out any more or take responsibility for what they do.

That said, I would glue it on with a few power driven self drilling/tapping screws. The wood purlins might be an option. Ideally the copper should go on a deck of plywood with felt under it. Nail it with copper nails. .032" copper is too thin to be structural. Try to get the architects help in designing the project. Write your own disclaimer in the contract.

ah.. there is a kink in the works. first of all, i'd like to thank everyone for their advice.

i went to the cemetery and had a look at the structure. seems the contractors didnt go by the architects drawings.. the whole structure is made of small I beams (6mm) as per the drawings.. but the top layer.. the highest part.. is made with bent 2" diam tubing.. probably about 1/8 wall. THAT wasnt on the drawings.

that makes my aim with the nailguns/powerhammer much more difficult.

what to do now?

-tony

You might end up shooting some bereaved person, or yourself if the projectile ricochets! Sounds like drilling and screwing would be your best bet for direct attachment, although applying the copper to an intermediate deck would probably be a better job. If there is a compound curve involved I don't think the copper will conform that nicely if applied in 4 x 8 sheets.

If at all!

Harold

Hey shoemaker, stick to making shoes.

Use Tek self drilling screws or self tappers. You will probably have to drill a pilot hole to get the best job. IMO, they should be stainless geoff