OT-DIY Rubber roofing

I wonder if the EDPM used for ponds is same/different formula. You might check with the local pond/pool suppliers to see if they can get the roofing type rubber for you.

----------------------------------------- Jack Kevorkian for Congressional physician!

do you really mean "rubber" - if so, unless you intend for it to be covered with snow or dirt or something, it's unlikely to last a year. If it's polyproplene, I've seen it last up to 6 months in the sun. Why not use real roofing paper (90# felt)???, the kind with white rocks holds up best in bright sun.

Ask about "Modified bitumen" membrane. I have it on my 30k' flat roof. You can do it yourself and cold bond or melt-down. 50 years with occasional coating, preferably aluminized. MAGIC!!!

I had a very small EPDM roof done several years ago by a friend of mine who ran a roofing company. The roof only lasted a few years then started to crack. EPDM seems to work well in a ballasted situation, where gravel is placed on top to hold it down and shield it from the sun. You didn't say whether yours was to be ballasted or not, but the rubber that was used on my roof didn't last when exposed fully to the elements.

Have you considered modified bitumen (torch down) roofing? It comes in much smaller rolls, about $40 each last time I checked. It's a little more tricky to put down since it has to be melted, but once you get the hang of it, it goes pretty well. It has a mineral surface to protect from UV exposure. If you have any quantity to do at all, I recommend buying a roofing torch intended for this operation. Makeshift torches (such as I have used) are more trouble than they're worth.

EPDM is really intended for large production jobs since it can be readily made in such large rolls.

Gary Brady Austin, TX

Butyl rubber and EDPM are both expensive materials and the life of the job is very dependant on the detailing of joints, edges, gutters and penetrations. Manufacturers won't guarantee the job unless the work is done by an authourised contractor. The most forgiving materials are the old bitumen based products which are built up in multiple layers. Butyl rubber is a good material which will last well over 40 years if properly applied to a good surface. You may have to re-sheath your roof with ply or fibrous cement sheet sarking. Get a manufacturer's data sheet and study it carefully. Some good information on Butynol here:-

EPDM makes a great roof as long as it's not subject to a lot of physical damage. It's easy to repair with tape if it does get a cut. Firestone makes a mesh reinforced .045 that's a bit stronger than the usual .045. Fully adhered on an approved substrate is probably the best way to go for your situation. The right built up roof is still the ultimate low pitch/flat roof, but unless you spring big bucks for Tremco or want to deal with heating up real pitch, not that great an option in your case. Cold applied modified bitumen is a viable option. Torch applied is way too dangerous, especially on a wooden structure IMHO.

Check with local RV dealers that work on trailers. They buy rubber roofing all the time for RV's. May be ripoff artists too! Sounds like the WEB source is your best bet. Bugs

Is thus stuff solid rubber or more of a closed cell foam?

We bought some of the latter material that is adhesive backed in 1/32" and

An acquaintance put a metal roof on his shed / barn by himself recently. He described the procedure to me when I was over to see the new construction and it seemed pretty simple -basically put it in place and screw it down using a special screw with a gasket. I don't know if a metal roof would work for a really flat roof, but it sure looked durable.

RWL

In NY, it's typically polyisocyanurate tapered foam with some fiber reinforcement on the top and bottom. The roof is all figured out by the manufacturer and laid out so the tapered panels create slopes to drains.

There are a couple of brands. we have "Butynol" on our roof, which is held down with contact adhesive. Another brand is a torch on system called Nuraply. IMO, the torch on ones are better as you melt the sheets together, so there is less chance of a leak, especially in corners. The common use for the stuff is for internal gutters.

The proper name for the material is EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer). Yes it is the same stuff marketed for lining "frog ponds". We have had several roofs using the material and have done away with all of them. We use modified bitumen roofing, hot applied, exclusively. It does not like ponded water. Roofs should have 1/4"/foot minimum fall. It does not fail because of the ponded water, but seems to discolor and deteriorate faster and grow mold or pond scum.

(top posted for your convenience) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net

My neighbor has done it on a flat roof. No problem after two years and two MN winters, seems to work fine.

He noted that the stuff is extremely heavy. Not a problem for the roof, but he had a hell of a time getting it up there.