Use a singlepoint diamond to reshape the stone. The star wheel
dressers work best for cleaning the surface of cut and otherwise
non-cutting grit particles (the cause of hot work, due to more friction
Stop shaving, stop using soap, and get used to the itch, then.
You already are a consumer.
Why do you not just draw out the fly cutter and it's bit to get a
handle on it's geometry?
A grade school drawing set has all the tools you need to do an
"accurate" drawing, but a napkin and a crayon would serve well enough.
=================Commercially available face mills and carbide insert fly cutters
[like the B-58] are reasonably enough optimized for commercial
high volume use in rigid high power machines, where the cost of
tooling is included in the job bid price, and stocking a variety
of inserts in the tool crib is accepted practice. Many of these
tools are designed with negative/negative rake.
In many [but not all] home/hobby shops, the mills are low power
and lightly built. From a power point, positive rake tools are
desirable, as are smaller size tools with 5/8 or 1/2-inch shanks
[e.g. 1/2 inch is the max size #2 MT collet available, 5/8 inch
is the max ER25 collet]
The "standard" fly cutter is designed for a single tool bit set
with 0/0 radial/axial rake. Of course you can grind in rake/hook,
but as you sharpen the tool you are also cutting it in two.
In general, home/hobby shop equipment does not have the
power/speed and more importantly the rigidity to effectively use
Creation of a fly cutter with built in axial/radial rake
[possibly 2, one for aluminum (c. +15 degrees) and one for steel
(c +7 degrees)] using inexpensive M2 late tool bits that most any
home/hobby shop machinist can easily shape/sharpen on a belt/disk
sander or inexpensive grinder makes perfect sense.
Fabrication of such a fly cutter is well within the capabilities
of all but the newest machinists, and requires only a minimum of
tooling, and inexpensive materials [1/2 or 5/8 inch stripper bolt
for the shank and a 2 X 2 X 1_1/2 block of steel], while
providing very useful practice in precision layout, shop math,
set up and milling. If 4 tool bits are used it is easy to set
the cutter up so that you have rougher and finisher tools, and
can employ different grinds/geometries. Try to buy one of
those!!! Negative radial [chips to outside] positive axial fly
cutters are also easily created.
FWIW - the commercial insert face mills use negative radial
[chips to the outside] positive axial rake because the volume of
chips produced and the number of inserts tends to trap the chips
"inside" the face mill. With only 2 or 4 tool bits and much
lower chip generation because of limited power, a multi tool fly
cutter on home shop equipment does not have this problem.
How many people would like plans for such a fly cutter?
Unka' George [George McDuffee]
===========Merchants have no country.
The mere spot they stand on
does not constitute so strong an attachment
as that from which they draw their gains.
Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826),
U.S. president. Letter, 17 March 1814.
And the size of the foot.
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