Lacking the money for a Darex or Cuttermaster endmill rig, I'm looking for low-cost alternatives that work well, but perhaps aren't quite as "automatic" as the two above.
I'm _halfway_ tempted to build a Cuttermaster clone, liking the action a bit better than the Darex. But, MAN! I haven't got the time right now.
Any Good Ideas?
LLoyd
This surface grinder fixture works well enough for me:
It only sharpens the end and renews the tips, so I try to minimize side cutting and plunge to rough out most of a slot, or take shallow cuts for a step. It will bevel the corners which allows side cutting to the depth of the bevel.
Jim Wilkins
--So take three months and build a Quorn; you'll be glad ya did. Heh.
steamer fired this volley in news:496a20fe$0$1635 $ snipped-for-privacy@news.sonic.net:
Well, the price is right. Do you have one? I can't find any finished pictures, yet. How does the slide-rotate action work. Does he have an air bearing like the Darex, or some other method?
LLoyd
Jim, I have Grizzly's variant of that
I'm still green as a Christmas tree to my surface grinder. What's the sequence / procedure to set the grinding jig up and use it? How do you get the gash so that the end mills center cut?
RWL
That one looks nicer than mine. I have to count the faint clicks over the motor noise to index the next position.
On the record I have to write that an experienced machinist should personally show you how to use the machine. I took night classes and have worked in machine shops. Like other machine tools they can be dangerous.
I never found any good detailed instructions for using this fixture. I generally look at something and reconstruct the process used to make it, then experiment until I can duplicate the result.
For centercutting I think you creep in with light cuts until it looks right. The edge of the wheel inevitably breaks away a little so you can't measure to it. I save new end mills for finishing and use mostly a couple of old 4 flute non centercutting ones that have been sharpened on the outside and are slightly undersize, which is fine for roughing but makes it difficult to hit an exact dimension with them. The surface grinder which caused that problem is also a fine solution to it.
They will mill a blind pocket by moving the table sideways so they cut a shallow ramp. You can see and feel when the center isn't cutting. If the pocket is deep and narrow, drill a starting hole almost full depth.
IMHO resharpening end mills is for cost-sensitive retired hobbyists. When I'm on the clock I just grab another new one.
Jim Wilkins
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