removing powder coating?

I have this !@#$%^&*( trailer hitch receiver tube this guy wants galvanized. It's a long story, don't ask! Anyway, it goes on a yacht, hanging just above the salt water, and of course the dang thing rusted right through the powder coat in a few years. He gave it to me bead blasted but the inside of the tube (18" long) still has a lot of powder coat material left.

I've had it soaking in lye (3/4 lb in ~ 5 gallons of cold water) for nearly a week. The powdercoat remnants appear impervious to lye.

While I had the thing in lye, I was going to try adding some electricity, but I'm scratching my head as to an appropriate electrode to run down the tube, which has to be horizontal because of the nature of the tub it's in.

What the heck is this stuff anyway? I always thought it was basically just enamel paint, applied a little differently. Is there anything that will simply dissolve off all traces?

Grant

Reply to
Grant Erwin
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The powder that gets electrostatically sprayed on is like a pre-polymer. In the oven it melts and cross links forming a thick film that is basically impervious to solvents. That said, I have heard of one or two success stories with paint remover. Our local powder coater has a second, smaller oven that he runs at 650 F or so to burn off old powder to get rid of it. Of course, the EPA came along and required all kinds of smoke cleanup and fire suppression so it's more expensive now :-). I think bead blasting would be your best bet if you can't burn it off.

-- Regards, Carl Ijames carl.ijames at verizon.net

Reply to
Carl Ijames

Grant You will probalby have to sandblast or some kind of meadia blast to remove it. Powder coat is basically a polyester plastic powder and it is melted onto the surface its applied to. There may be some solvents for this stuff but its probalby pretty nasty stuff :-)

James Crombie

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Reply to
James P Crombie

Fire.

-Carl

Reply to
Carl Byrns

The fastest way I've found to remove a powdercoat to bare metal is to use a rosebud to break down the pigment, then sandblast the residue.

Reply to
Tom Stovall

Polyester polymer.

Try methylene chloride paint remover.

Reply to
Richard J Kinch

Methylene chloride.

Reply to
John

Grant Erwin wrote: He gave it to me bead

Is there anything that

Put it in a bath of molten zinc.

Kevin Gallimore

Reply to
axolotl

Abrasive slurry pump.

Reply to
Tom Gardner

bake at 575 degrees or higher for more than 4 hours after reaching temperature , then you will be left with a light coating that a wire wheel or sand blaster will remove pretty quickly , sand blasting without baking is a long process

Reply to
c.henry

I think powder coat is epoxy, heat should work. is this a hardened and tempered piece of steel.

Reply to
Carl Boyd

That might work, but as others have mentioned, powder coat is a fused plastic. Burning it off is quick and clean. Methylene Chloride (isn't that the same thing as Stripeez?) is not clean and I doubt it is fast.

-Carl

Reply to
Carl Byrns

Molten gold or molten unobtainium works better.

Gunner

Reply to
Gunner

"Safer Stripper - Want to get away from Methylene Chloride and still remove tough urethane, epoxy and powder coatings?

Then Eastwood DEKOTE is the answer. Available in aerosol, qt., gal, 5 and 55 gallon drums this paint remover will not harm steel, aluminum, pot metal die cast, fiberglass and SMC panels.

The longer dwell time (30 minutes to 3 hours) means it doesn't work as fast as Methylene Chloride based strippers but it provides time for the remover to penetrate multiple coats."

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Reply to
David Courtney

Lye only works on organic oil-based finishes, basically turns the stuff into soap. We had a large vat of stripper at the powder coat plant, mostly methylene chloride. Polyester finishes would come off with about 6 hours(2/3s of a shift) soaking, epoxy took longer. The remains washed off with water. We didn't use urethanes, don't know what strips them. Get a can of aircraft finish stripper and see if that makes a dent in the stuff. It'll take a long soak in it, so don't give up after 15 minutes.

Powder coat is basically powdered polymer that's applied electrostatically and melted to the cleaned(you hope) surface where it bonds. The bond is good enough on properly applied coatings that the part can be bent double with no cracking or peeling. It's also very resistant to abrasion so it's no surprise that the blasting didn't remove it. If you've got a powder coater in the area, see if they've got a stripper vat and ask if you can use it.

Stan

Reply to
stans4

I used to have a lot of stuff powdercoated- a grand or two a month, for almost 10 years. And so, I spent a lot of time at high quality powdercoating shops- guys who had ovens that were 20 feet by 10 feet by 10 feet. The pros do just as several people here suggested- burn it first, then sandblast.

The big shop in Paramount Ca. that I used to use had an oven that went to 1500 degrees, not any measly 540, for "burn out" of mistakes. It had a little railroad track going into it, and a very hefty cart that the work sat on. And a monthly visit from the Southern California Air Quality Management district, to make sure its scrubbers were working right. Not Cheap. Then, when the powder was crispy, you could sandblast it off. But it wasnt easy- it was still stuck on there pretty good.

Without heating it, sandblasting is almost useless- it can be done, but it takes forever. I also used to frequent a huge industrial sandblaster in LA- 30,000 sq ft, bridge cranes, a whole loft full of ancient 200 hp compressors- single piston models from before the second world war. Their air holding tank was 2 stories tall, and if filled with water could have supplied a small town. These guys were pros, set up to do anything. And they had a policy- NO SANDBLASTING POWDER COAT. People would come in with 10 dollar import metal lawn chairs, and try to get them sandblasted. White powdercoat. Little grid of 1/8" wire. And they would laugh, and tell them that if they were foolish enough to take the job, they would have to charge $150 or $200 each, because it took so long.

Powder coat is great for indoor uses. It sucks for exterior, because it always starts to peel and rust eventually, but never over the whole thing- only in spots, making it look ugly, but still making it near impossible to remove.

Its usually cheaper to make a whole new part than to remove powdercoating.

Reply to
Ries

Well, I got the part a whole *lot* cleaner. A week in lye, cold water rinse, followed by an iterative loop: heat with big rosebud blow with compressed air

For inside the tube (this is 18" long trailer hitch receiver tube) I also scrubbed with a hand wire brush.

Took a little time, but now I'm confident enough of the stuff is off so that the galvanizing shop will run it.

And yes, I did it outside! There wasn't much coating on the piece except in the tube, and I blew the big rosebud down the length of the tube away from myself so the main stink went away. Lotta crap came flying out of there when I hit it with compressed air after the first heat!

Thanks to all.

Grant

Reply to
Grant Erwin

i see Grant is done. just wanted to chime in with my two cents. i had a few (recycled from the dump) 1"x 1" square steel tubes with flaking powdercoat (like Ries said) that i wanted to re-use, wanted to strip to bare metal. sanding was taking FOREVER with poor results. tried a hand held propane torch. heated the powdercoat till it blistered and scraped it off with paint scraper. it took a while, was messy and smoky/smelly but it worked better than sanding. i didn't want to heat the metal till the powder coat burned/turned to ash as others have suggested. took a while to develop a "touch" for it. occasionally able to get "large" sections to come off in one nice long floppy strip. the touch was, heating it enough to get the powdercoat to bubble and loosen but not hot enough to get it to remelt and STICK back on.

b.w.

Reply to
William Wixon

I think clear grade diamond chunks for his 'sand blaster' :-)

Mart> >

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

SVG or better

Gunner

Reply to
Gunner

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