16 years ago
four leveling bolts each at the headstock and tailstock end. I set up a
1" cold roll round bar in a collet with 5.5" between the collar
measuring points and then cut out .010" or so in the middle of the bar.
I then took a clean up pass on the collars and then a very fine pass at
about .002" depth of cut. I then tweaked in the two inside bolts of the
tailstock until it will cut a taper of only .0015" over the 5.5"
between the collars. This equates to about .00027" of taper per inch.
I think that is pretty good for a lathe built in 1953, but I would like
to get the opinion of the group. A problem I have ran into is when
trying to "twist" the bed at the tailstock end is that the bolt I am
trying to adjust will lift the opposing end of the cabinet off the
ground if it is tightened too much. It is cutting slightly larger at
the tailstock end and when I try to lift the front edge to twist the
bed so it will cut more off the tailstock end I run out of adjustment
before I can get the last little bit of twist because of the lift
I have about 500 lbs of slab weights I can put into the cabinet at the
tailstock end to "push down" on the bolts or I can bolt one corner so
it cannot move. I would rather not have to bolt it though as that would
entail alot of work and also drilling a hole in my garage floor. I have
also read numerous posts that say never to bolt down a lathe of this
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated on solving this problem or
just letting me know if that amount of taper in 5.5" is satisfactory or