resistance soldering questions

I have managed to come by an old Vigor resistance soldering machine. It's the 1500 watt SM-800 model in case you are interested.

Fixed a few of the small problems, like making up a stainless steel tip, and have started to play about with it.

Sort of neat to see paper clips burn but this is a new experience for me so I have been trying to get a better fix on how to use this equipment properly.

I have done some web searching and have improved my understanding but questions remain.

If anyone would be kind enough to fill in some of the blanks I would appreciate it.

Wondering what I should watch out for like...

I haven't seen anything that talks about eye protection other than just wear goggles. But every once in a while the thing arcs.

American Beauty seems to be a "name" in this area and I have looked at their site and down loaded some of the video clips. Any other companies that I should check out.

One site recommends using Supersafe Superior #30 flux. Other suggestions? This is the web site:

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The reason for using carbon tips is because they don't transmit heat the way stainless does?

Some sites have suggested pulling the anode from old batteries. I remember doing this as a kid but I now wonder if this is such a great idea.

The tweezer tips that I see seem to have both the + and - leads attached. That way you just clip on and the tweezers just heat what's between them.

I'd like to make up something like these but don't have a good fix on the design. Especially how to keep both tips electrically and thermally insulated from each other.

At this stage, I'll admit that this machine is mostly a tool in search of a problem. But one thing that I would like to do is use it to roll my own battery packs for robots that I build. I have done this with regular solder gun and appreciate that you must NOT put too much heat into the battery.


Web sites?

Any other tips? (Bad pun intended! :-)

Thanks for any help.


Buy my junk!

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Reply to
Tim Killian

Sort of. It's because the carbon tip doesn't get hot except where you're soldering. Where I used to use them is on aircraft cannon plugs and relays. If you have to resolder one wire in the middle of a 128 pin cannon plug, you can't jam a regular soldering iron down among all those close packed wires without burning them. But the carbon tip is cold except where it touches the metal of the pin you're soldering.

Reply to
John Ings

The versatility of the iron is greatly increased if you have a foot switch. You can leave burn marks on what you're soldering if it's on all the time, and you can meter the heat a lot better with a foot switch. I like being able to do the job and not move anything while I let it cool.

Reply to
carl mciver

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