afaik, the screw is 8 tpi, most of these smaller imports seem to be.
this sounds like a decent project, i need to start doing some more research. i never thought i would need much threading and that has been true, but it still would be fun to accomplish. ...>> the lead screw is the y-axis feed
yes, push it, but the handwheel is on the tail end of the screw. you disengage the clutch, then turn the handwheel (half-nuts still on). of course this means the handwheel also turns under power feed. not really too neat.
that is basically the 4015 lathe section, sans the rack gear. they give you a 127/13x(?) duplex gear so you can cut metric threads, too.
yes, that is what i _thought_ i had. this clutch is located in the base of the pedestal and from the drawing, it looks like two "spiders" with four legs. maybe that is a "dog clutch"? but just the one clutch. another poster suggested it s/b okay to use w/power on. will pull that cover plate and then maybe give it a try. Thanks, --Loren
Once you have the capability to do threading easily, you'll find more and more uses for it. (One feature is getting the spindle speed down slow enough so your reflexes are adequate without training. :-)
[ ... ]
Agreed. A CNC mill which I used for a while at work had handwheels on the motor driven axes -- but the handwheels were cupped discs, with a spring-loaded handle which was normally folded into the disc. You had to pivot it out to use it manually. but it meant that you would not get hit with the handle when it suddenly went from creeping to a blur. :-)
[ ... ]
O.K. The gears for the metric threading kit for the Clausing are a 100 tooth and a 127 tooth (plus a few others to build up various thread pitches).
[ ... ]
Well ... the way I've been using the term (which may be incorrect) is that a dog clutch goes from free rotation to locked with no friction slip between the two. There are various ways to do this. One involves two discs facing each other, with a set of pins in one, and a matching set of holes in the other. One of the discs is able to move towards and away from the other to allow them to couple or uncouple.
By contrast, the South Bend (and some other lathes) have a multi-disc clutch to couple the feed to the cross-feed leadscrew, or to the handwheel engaging the rack under the bed. Thus it can be started smoothly at any speed, and set to slip when too much torque is being required, making it fail softly. I would like to have that on the Clausing, but what I have is gears which slide to engage the teeth on other gears. (Mind you -- it is running slowly enough to not have a jerk when it starts, anyway. :-)
Generally, dog clutches are designed so they will engage (or disengage) under power. The releasing tap holders for threading in a turret are designed so when the tap pulls the end of the tool out, the dog clutch in it disengages, allowing the tap to spin freely with the workpiece when it had gotten deep enough.
I suspect that you can. The Shoptask one seems to be so designed, at least.
i tested it tonight, at it works well under power (at the lowest rpm) and will make the machine a bit easier to use. i also tried the speed clutch, it also cycles smoothly under power. in toto, a great outcome (the speed control affects only the leadscrew or mill the head).
yes, indeed, thanks for the feedback, to both of you guys.
PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.