rust in gas tank

My 8N tractor has had rust flakes from inside the gas tank plug the fuel flow several times over the years. The machine is only 62 years old now,
just getting broke in.
How would you correct this issue? The larger fuel filter idea has worked for a few years, but now I need to go after the problem source.
Karl
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A fuel strainer upstream of the filter may be easier than trying to treat the source.
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K Ludger wrote:

I had a smilar problem on our Ferguson T20 diesel. That was made in 1956 so is also getting better now its some 53yrs old. Gave it to my son as his 10th birthday present..
So what did I do? I unscrewed the fuel tap from the underside of the fuel tank and made up a strainer from some stainless steel gauze with holes about 1/32 between each of the woven wires, This was rolled around a 1.4in dia bolt and was some 6in long. I drilled out a recess some 5/16th in into the inlet hole of the fuel tap some 1/2in deep and just pushed it in. Nice springy fit. been fine ever since. Needs cleaning once a year.
Hope this helps. Ted Dorset UK.
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Remove the tank and put in a few pounds of steel nuts and washers along with a gallon of deisel fuel and tumble it around for a few hours to knock all the loose rust out. Then drain it and clean it out - a steam cleaner works well. Then put in about a quart of phosphoric acid and sloah it around for a while again. Then use Por15 or some other quality tank sealer that is impervious to ethanol and gasoline. Failing that, send the cleaned tank to a hot dip galvanizer.
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Use a fuel tanks "Slosh compound". I have been using red Kote http://www.4secondsflat.com/Fuel_Tank_Sealer.html for many years on many tanks, and no problems ever. Get it at a local radiator shop. Follow the directions, use hardware to loosen rust, flush a couple of times with acetone otr MEK, then slosh it. I place a small 12V computer cooling fan on the inlet with outlets open to speed drying, the brushless motors can not make sparks.
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Karl Townsend wrote:

POR15 makes a product to line tanks . I believe it comes in a kit with cleaners to prep the tank before lining it . Kreem also makes a product for the same use , but several people I know have had problems with this one in their motorcycle tanks . That might be due to poor prep , I don't know . I do know I had a m/c tank that shed chunks of a liner material , but I didn't put it in there and don't know what it was .
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New ones run from about $116 to $145 on EBay right now. I'd suggest that if you are going to take the tank off to clean it, you might as well replace it to get it ready for its next 62 years.
Pete Stanaitis ----------------------
Karl Townsend wrote:

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Thanks for the pointer. I guess I'll just replace it. I tried that Kreem route on a Gravely tank, spent a whole day at it and then had even more trouble when it started coming apart.
I do hate to start replacing stuff on a tractor that is just getting broke in.
Karl
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On Sun, 1 Mar 2009 05:03:43 -0600, the infamous "Karl Townsend"

R&R tank and use a stainless replacement. or R&R tank, clean throughly, swish tank sealant inside, let dry, reinstall.
Yes, I'm aware that that's much more easily said than done.
Hey, buy my welder for $300 and use the stainless tank off that! ;)
-- "Not always right, but never uncertain." --Heinlein -=-=-
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On Sun, 1 Mar 2009 05:03:43 -0600, "Karl Townsend"

My son's Fordson Super Major is a spring chicken. '52 model, only 57 years old, starts first time if the battery is charged.
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On Sun, 01 Mar 2009 05:03:43 -0600, Karl Townsend wrote:

I had very good success with a tank off of an old 5H Vibration and Stratton just with cleaning -- I took it off, but some sharp gravel in it (big pieces only), shook the hell out of it, cleaned it with soap and water, let it dry _thoroughly_, and everything worked fine since.
That won't keep it from rusting _again_, of course -- that part's up to you.
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when you encounter this situtation in automotive restoration, the procedure is:
1. remove tank, pour in a rust removign mixgure (there are several commercial kits for this) and get the rust out.
2. pour in a passivating mixture to stop the rust removing mixture from eating through the tank.
3. pour in 'sloshing fluid" - of one kind or another - these are a kind of paint designed to seal and protect the inside of a gas tank. some of the older ones are affected by alcohol and should be avoided now, some are two part epoxies - sources like Hemmings Motor News will identify many suppliers.
here is one product http://www.por15.com/Fuel-System-Restoration/products/12 /
here is a service that does the job for you http://www.gas-tank.com /
here is a "how to" article http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/automotive/1266991.html

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wrote:

Does the sediment bowl have a screen that goes up into the tank? I think they are supposed to. Sometimes they will come loose or rot off. They will usually stop the pieces from plugging the inlet into the sediment bowl. If it were me I would just take off the tank, rinse it out good, put in a hand full of hex nuts with some water and slosh it around good to clean it. Then put it all back together and try to keep the tank full of gas so that it doesn't get alot of water from condensation in it. That will help it from rusting so much. Maybe even try some dry gas once in a while.
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If you remove the fuel tank you can wash the inside with muratic (hydrocloric) acid. That will disolve the rust quickly and leave the tank spotless. Besure to rinse thoroughly and then neutralize with baking soda and water. Steve

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Karl: Here's A couple of links for tractor parts for you.
www.n-complete.com Technical assistance-765-785-2314
www.steinertractor.com sales office 800-234-3280
I have no connection to these company's. I found them in my new issue The Best Of Farm Show Magazine last night.
Good Luck! H.R.
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