Sorta OT-- RV freezer/refridgerator

If its a 12V/Gas/110V? Take it out, turn it upside down for a few days, put it back in and see if it works. If it does, let me know and I'll send you an invoice for a callout fee. If it does n't work it probably needs a re-gas.

snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote in news:ajn984l63l5f1r1uadv0bv2ed4f89fgrud@

Check the temperature control - not the thermostat - which sets/limits the airflow from the freezer section to the fridge section.

The move may have jostled the deflector plate loose.

Try adjusting the fridge temperature setting and listen for a grinding/clanking sound.

All adsorption refrigerators have to be somewhat close to level to run properly, or the ammonia and water don't separate and flow and recombine at the different levels the way they are supposed to. Side to side more important than front to back.

The newer refrigerators have designs that tolerate off-camber operation much better - Old ones can be downright persnickety.

Google up a diagram of how they work - it's one of those 'Bumblebees can't fly! - Good thing nobody ever told the Bumblebees...' type of impossible possibilities.

Sometimes the sealed system develops a pinhole and leaks out just enough of the water and ammonia mix to stop working. All the big makers can exchange the sealed system cartridge for a nominal fee.

But before starting, look at the condition of the rest of the unit first. If the gas burner is rusting out, the electric heater is shot, and someone has beaten on the thermostat with a rock to make it work in the past, sometimes you're better off to scrap it and get a new one. See that part about off-camber operations above.

(Yes, I realize this is r.c.m where people answer to Don Quixote and see these things as a challenge, but you have to pick your battles.)

When you take the cooling cartridge out and replace it, use fresh Permagum sealing putty cord, and the cork and asphalt insulating tape as needed, so the cold stays on the inside and the hot on the outside

- it's available at any good refrigeration house.

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The Bumblebee comment came from a biology grad student in the early

Here's an explanation of absorption refrigeration I posted in 1998 =2E "There is or was a demo of this device in the Museum of Science in Boston. It was a squarish loop of copper pipe with an inner branch connecting the uprights, making a distorted figure 8, mounted through a plexiglass wall with a gas burner heating the back. There was very obviously nothing there except the flame heating a loop of pipe, yet the part outside the plexi was covered with frost."

"It works on the same principal as a medical cold pack, or salt melting the ice on the road. There are some pairs of substances that readily dissolve in each other even though the process absorbs instead of releases energy. The reaction runs "backwards", just as water evaporates, dissolves in the air, and floats up to become a cloud instead of staying in the ocean where gravity wants it to be."

"The tube contains a salt water or ammonia/water solution. Table salt will work but there are better choices, such as lithium chloride or bromide. The flame boils water (or ammonia) out of the solution. The bubbly mix of steam and concentrated solution rises up a tube to the tee, where the liquid runs down the branch and the vapor continues over the top of the loop. Both need to be cooled to near room temperature by fins, a fan, etc while kept apart."

"On the cold side the separated vapor recombines with the liquid, absorbing heat and thus cooling the pipe. The bottom of the cold side empties into the bottom of the boiler, below the flame so the hot liquid can't travel back into the cold side. This is an example of the thermosiphon described in recent posts, with the addition of extra pumping height due to the lightweight froth in the top of the boiler."

J. Wilkins KB1DAL snipped-for-privacy@mitre.org