Spring winding advice

Jul 22, 2010 45 Replies

Jim Wilkins fired this volley in news:c0765834-ce9e- snipped-for-privacy@g1g2000pre.googlegroups.com:

I'd have to re-build it to accommodate 13-thousanths wire. Its low end is

0.025", right now. At 0.020, the wire just hides in the wheel groove, and slips. I tried it with my roll of 0.020" music wire. Wheel turned, wire didn't feed.

LLoyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" fired this volley in news:Xns9DC060133E1Elloydspmindspringcom@216.168.3.70:

I wasn't doing this for spring winding. I was trying to weld with it. No soap.

LLoyd

news:Xns9DC060133E1Elloydspmindspringcom@216.168.3.70:

How about dressing a Dremel cutoff wheel to a V shape and grinding a new groove near the edge of the roller, then spacing it out to align with the wire tube? I don't know how long a shop-made unhardened roller would last, probably enough to wind a spring but not enough for much welding.

jsw

That's true for inexpensive springs with loose tolerances. Precision springs are still wound on mandrels. Look in McMaster to see the difference in tolerance and price between standard and precision springs.

There is a book in the Workshop Practice series, "Spring Design and Manufacture" by Tubal Cain. It does have at least one chapter on winding springs. I gave it a cursory glance, some of the same problems discussed here were covered. See:

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There was a crappy pdf version at
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a while back. It is readable, may give you some ideas (shrug).

Leon Fisk fired this volley in news:i2i7qt$d7n$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:

Oh, MAN! That's a good one! I got it off the freebookspot site.

THANKS!

LLoyd

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