Stuck Rings Maybe

I picked up a quart of acetone just a few days ago to mix with some ATF ... I've been trying for a couple of years now to get the wheels off my rear tine tiller so i can install tubes . Went so far as to machine a puller that had 2 studs that screwed into the cross bolt holes in the wheel hub and a jack screw . Heat treated 4140 studs sheared and the wheel never moved .

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I've been trying Kroil on last century's road salt rust with some possible success after PB Blaster fails, it's hard to know which or what combination of things worked. I put it in a small needle oiler bottle to apply it by the drop in tight places.

"Back in the day" we used half an ounce of "oil of wintergreen" from the pharmacist in a quart or so of diesel fuel and put an ounce or so in each cyl and put the plugs back in and left it sit ivernight then topped up with an ounce a day for 2 days or so, wiggling the crank back and forth a little every 12 hours or so. Freed up some very seriously stuck engines that way Once broken free a couple ounces of Dexron A tranny fluid and spin it over with the plugs out. The tranny fluid flushed rust particals out as it blew out the plug hole.

I have a hard time hearing the difference between a lifter tapping, and a small exhaust leak, but my dad could listen to an engine and tell you what the noise was almost every time. I bought a pickup truck once that sounded pretty much okay to me, and he told me, "Tear it down. It's got a wrist pin slapping." He was right.

Another time we beached a boat in a back cove at Lake Powell, and hiked up to the highway. (I don't recall why exactly.) Walking back towards Wahweap Marina we played a game guessing what the vehicle was approaching by the sound. I was amazed how accurately he identified them... Sounds like a big block v8. Probably a Ford pickup... sounds like a moderately high reving 4 cylinder, but its funny. Maybe an opposed four like a VW beetle... He was probably right 4 out of 5 times. Vehicle 6 or 7 gave us a ride up to the marina. Later in life his time spent around aircraft caught up with his hearing and he had to wear hearing aids.

It might take him a day or two to spin it over under power. It had a modified voltage regulator and ran an 8 volt battery. When I was looking I didn't find many 8 volt car batteries. There are a couple, but I would have had to order one.

It might take him a day or two to spin it over under power. It had a modified voltage regulator and ran an 8 volt battery. When I was looking I didn't find many 8 volt car batteries. There are a couple, but I would have had to order one.

Yep. And it worked. Of course this was probably around 1974/75. 50 years ago the Internet was not an available resource.

If you have a fairly accurate way to measure DC current, measuring the millivolt drop in a cable with 1A to 10A DC flowing through it gives a good reading of its resistance. For example 10mV at 10A indicates 1 milliOhm, a foot of 10 AWG wire. Headlight bulbs make good load resistances for this.

This gives wire resistance per foot in milliOhms, which is also the milliVolt drop per foot at 1 Amp.

Higher resistance than the gauge and length suggest may indicate corrosion in the end terminals or under the insulation. Sometimes it reveals substandard wire, like copper-clad aluminum (CCA) made from scrap rather than pure aluminum, or copper wire (OFC) thinner than advertised.

Connect the power and measurement leads separately to the end terminals so the power contact resistance drop doesn't add to the reading.

I am somewhat familiar knowing things like putting the batteries in the front of a boat for the front trolling motor makes more difference than bumping up a wire size. (It also may have a negative affect on performance on the gas motor depending on all other factors of load, hull design, and balance)

The thing to remember is the Jeep is no longer mine, and its no longer in close proximity currently since its now living in Florida. I can't apply any of those practical exercises without excess expense for no personal gain.

Yep. And it worked. Of course this was probably around 1974/75. 50 years ago the Internet was not an available resource. Bob La Londe CNC Molds N Stuff

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We kept the Army M151 Jeeps running with J.C.Whitney parts bought with our money and of course they were upgraded as much as possible, until they were dangerously fast on winding back roads more suited to BMWs.

I am somewhat familiar knowing things like putting the batteries in the front of a boat for the front trolling motor makes more difference than bumping up a wire size. (It also may have a negative affect on performance on the gas motor depending on all other factors of load, hull design, and balance)

The thing to remember is the Jeep is no longer mine, and its no longer in close proximity currently since its now living in Florida. I can't apply any of those practical exercises without excess expense for no personal gain.

I currently use a single LiFePo battery for my 36 volt trolling motors, and just swap it to whichever boat I am using. If I fished 3-4 days a week like I used to I might put one in each boat.

I currently use a single LiFePo battery for my 36 volt trolling motors, and just swap it to whichever boat I am using. If I fished 3-4 days a week like I used to I might put one in each boat. Bob La Londe

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How do you charge it?

There are varying opinions on the right way to charge them, and off season storage.

I use the charger sold by the battery seller. LiTimes batteries. I usually unhook it after its charged, and then plug it in again in a few weeks if I have not used it. If I have been using it I plug it in as soon as I get back, and then unplug it for a few weeks or until the next time I get out.

I've been chasing this "lifter tick" for a couple of years ... but I knew it couldn't be a lifter because it varied with throttle changes . Then one day I noticed a small spot of rust just above the center exhaust ports on the passenger side head . The leak had burned the paint off that small spot on the head and it had just a wee bit of flash rust . I think I'll be driving the truck more now , that damn tick always bothered me . Got some under dash stuff and need to figure out why the "new" drivers side window regulator is failing and why the converter lockup ain't lockin' up . Then it'll probably be rocker panel and floor pan repairs . Truck actually has surprisingly little serious rust considering it came out of Ohio

Mine wasn't locking because a rubber rim seal on the thermostat disk had deteriorated and allowed leakage that kept the engine from reaching the temperature that tripped the at-operating-temperature switch, until climbing a hill on a warm afternoon.

The thermostat opened and closed as specified when heated in a beaker of water. Ragged remnants of a rubber coating remained on it. I assume that was the problem because a replacement fixed the lockup and kept the temp gauge constant again, instead of decreasing when descending a long slope. The gauge isn't graduated, I have to remember where the needle rests in front of the thermometer icon.

The car is from 2000, old enough that I could buy the shop manuals and understand the explanations of how it works, a habit left from designing the production test stations for auto electronics. Now neither appear possible. Even back in 1991 the Ford all vehicle engine control and emissions manual was 4" thick.

Chatting with mechanics has revealed gaps and misunderstandings in their understanding of mechanical and electronic complexities. For example I've been assured that Lead is the most conductive metal.

Here's an area I am less familiar with. A service manager told me that refilling the Ranger's R-12 air conditioner with R-134a without first flushing it and replacing seals wouldn't cause the problems that were initially assumed. Is it really as simple as adding this coupling adapter kit?

Does anyone have hands-on experience with these?

I use the charger sold by the battery seller. LiTimes batteries. I usually unhook it after its charged, and then plug it in again in a few weeks if I have not used it. If I have been using it I plug it in as soon as I get back, and then unplug it for a few weeks or until the next time I get out. Bob La Londe CNC Molds N Stuff

-------------------------- The debates are about charging to cutoff each time or only to float voltage, ~13.6V, and occasionally at 14.4V to cutoff to enable cell rebalancing. Also paralleling with an AGM or flooded lead battery, which prevents the >20V voltage spike from a solar charger when the Li battery suddenly stops accepting charge current. At night the lithium trickle-charges the lead battery unless I open the breaker. AFAICT 13.6V is acceptable long-term for all three battery types though they recharge faster at 14.4V, also acceptable to all.

LiTime says to fully charge to cutoff at 14.4V, also to reduce the state of charge to ~60% for storage to reduce degradation at full charge. I'm trying to determine the time or cycle life effect of keeping the battery near but not at cutoff voltage during solar charged daily cycling. LiTime's support give the answers they know, which don't exactly match my questions.

Rust is a funny thing. I once borrowed a car from a lady who worked for us. It was an ancient old Buick. It drove like it was a ton heavier than it should have been, because it was. All the doors were full of water. It was hard to open without the extra mass throwing the door against the hinge stops, and hard to close without slamming. It sloshed,a nd the doors were very heavy. Of course the shocks were gone so it not only sounded like a tuna boat, it drove like one. It was not rusted out.

My dad's (mine now I guess) old Bronco which has spent its entire life in the Southwest desert has rust through in the tailgate. That's not a huge surprise. Water runs in the rear window after only a few years when it does rain because the rear window seal is not great. There is a ledge inside the tailgate, that tends to hold water, and the tailgate has tiny little drain holes that easily plug with dust. What is a surprise is some near rust through behind the wheels in the front quarter panels. Both sides. There is no reason for water to be trapped there. I posted some pictures online and people said they only saw that in coastal regions and rust belt areas where they use salt. My dad was the original new purchasers, and he lived in SW Arizona from long before that until he died. When I tried to explain it was not a rust belt vehicle people didn't believe me. They contradicted me or counter what I had to say in every way short of actually calling me a liar.

Rust is a funny thing. Around here For anything heavy that starts to rust we figure its started declining and might fail... in 50 years or so.

There were dual voltage conversions. The ignition can take it for a short time during starting. The rest of the vehicle can not.

I think the coil resistor that gets bypassed on slightly newer vehicles during starting was a hold over of that concept, although I have never thought it through exactly.