Subject: [Ganoksin] [October 2003] Tips From The Jeweler's Bench

The Ganoksin Project S i n c e 1 9 9 6 Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Techniques

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------------------------------------------------------------------------- In This Edition:

  1. The Hard Facts of Sapphire & Ruby.
    1. Combining Enameling Techniques
    . 3. Tarnishing Of Gold Jewelry and Black Skin Smudging.
    1. Chain Reaction - Tips on repairing broken chains
    .
    1. Testing Precious Metals and Their Alloys
    .
    1. A Lesson in Invisible Setting
    .
    1. Lets Talk Gemstones - Zircon Group - A Nesosilicate
    .
    1. Metals Suitable for Enameling
    .
    1. Notes on Studio Lighting
    .
    1. Have your studio separate from your home
    .

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In This Edition of Tips From The Jeweler's Bench

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  1. The Hard Facts of Sapphire & Ruby

Ask any jeweler to list the gemstones with which they prefer to work, and sapphires and rubies would undoubtedly rank near the top. With a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale, these popular varieties of corundum have long been considered nearly impossible to damage, and they can easily withstand the melting point of even high karat gold solders. Not surprisingly, many jewelers feel a comforting sense of security when faced with a ruby- or sapphire-set piece. Which may be a problem....

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  1. Combining Enameling Techniques

Enamel technique has progressed in a logical and practical direction through the ages, advancing when inspiration, need or new technology permitted. Modern technology has indeed given us new approaches to technique but only from the grounded foundation of knowledge that existed before....

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  1. Tarnishing Of Gold Jewelry And Black Skin Smudging

Tarnishing is superficial corrosion of the carat gold surface and is evident by a usually dark discolouration - the tarnish film. Pure gold, of course, is not susceptible to tarnishing and this property is generally not greatly reduced by alloying to carat golds as long as the gold content is high enough....

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  1. Chain Reaction - Tips on repairing broken chains

The difficulty of chain repair lies in the fact that the chain is made up of fine wires. These wires heat up quickly when trying to melt the solder. Two problems develop. The first is if the wire link gets too hot, it will quickly melt as you are trying to solder....

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  1. Testing Precious Metals and Their Alloys

The purpose of precious metal testing is to determine, first, whether a given sample is precious or base, and, second, to determine what proportion of an alloy is precious. Sophisticated equipment is used in a precious metal laboratory to determine content and purity values with great precision, but our attention here is given to methods a working goldsmith can use in the studio to determine metal content to a practical degree of accuracy.....

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  1. A Lesson in Invisible Setting

This column is from the At the Bench column that appears every month in AJM. For this project, it is assumed that you have prepared the mounting and acquired the grooved stones for invisible setting. The use of a microscope or 10x eye loupe can be crucial when working with the tight tolerances involved in the invisible setting process....

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  1. Lets Talk Gemstones - Zircon Group - A Nesosilicate

Zircon is the single member of the zircon group of the nesosilicates that is suitable for use as a gemstone. In the nesosilicates, independent SiO4 tetrahedra are connected only by ionic bonds. Because the tetrahedra are not linked to form chains....

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  1. Metals Suitable for Enameling

The purpose of this article is two fold. First, we receive a number of inquiries as to whether or not certain metals can be enameled. This article will answer most of those questions. Second, we have all read statements such as, 'Gilding metal can be fired no more than two times,' or 'Platinum can not be enameled because it has a terrific expansion.' Such statements were based on observations of a limited range of materials. We will show why the statements are misleading....

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  1. Notes on Studio Lighting

How you light your shop, illuminate your working area, experience the reflection from surfaces and the paint you choose for the walls all have an effect on your ability to work in your studio. Poor lighting can strain the eyes, contribute to accidents and make working uncomfortable.....

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  1. Have your studio separate from your home

Often craftspeople start out making craft objects in their living space, a kitchen, a living room, and sometimes continue working in them even when they have grown to the point that they need a separate studio. It is not wise to share one's living and family space with workshop space. Usually there are chemicals, tools, equipment, processes, sounds, materials, wastes, dusts and so on that are unhealthy to be exposed to that are produced in a work shop....

Complete Story:

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Make your gemstone shopping easier, safer and cheaper by buying directly from the source at

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------------------------------------------------------------------------- Put an Orchid on your Bench

Join the most popular online community for jewelers, The Orchid forums at

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Enjoy Hanuman

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We are here to build a strong pool of information for the benefit of Web's jewelers and craftsmen - and those interested in jewelry and gemstones.

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