Sweat Brazing?

And sweat brazing works the same way - just needs a lot more heat. Brazing is just high temperature soldering when all is said and done.

The hardest part of that job was removing the fittings from the old copper pipe. It wasn't soldered properly and had leaked so some moron braised the pipe to the fittings over the leaks. I had to saw them off flush, then file away the brazed spots. After that I had to use Oxyacetylene torch to heat the fitting while shoving a wide, narrow screwdriver between the old pipe and the fitting. Once it was pried far enough I used a big pair of needle nose pliers to twist a kink into the pipe and slide it out. Then I poured ruby flux on the hot copper and added fresh solder to properly tin each port. The excess was wiped out, then the ends of the piper were cleaned & tinned with plenty of 99.5% tin, .5% Antimony solder. Finally, they were carefully lined up and heated, then slid together. Only a couple needed a touch of solder to get a smooth joint all the way around the pipe, and that was just for cosmetics.

All that work because some idiot was in a hurry, and the custom RCA parts had been out of stock for over 20 years.

No, you're right - I've never had any problem sweat-SOLDERIMG; the question was about sweat BRAXING, which I take to be somewhat of a different animal.

But thanks for sharing! Rich