Brazing Q'

I finally got around to have fee time to my self today. I thought I would
teach myself Brazing. I did weld everything I set out to weld on with out
them falling apart, but I could not get the stacked dime affect. I used a
victor #3 with the O@3ish & A@5 at first I think I had the flame turned up
to high then lowered it to about 1/4 to 1/2" flame like in a cutting head
flame. I think it have the hang of it on the most part. I also did some used
horse shoes to make bridle and halter hangers just by cutting one shoe in
almost half and brazing it to another that is flat. I made a couple singles
and a double holder, I then drilled holes for mounting on the wall. I then
took them down out were we board our hay burners and showed them to a couple
other boarder and I think I have some customers @ $5.00 and 10.00. Now I
have other ideas floating around, also make things of their choice for the
boarders using their shoes as they come off their own horses. (kind of a
personal touch to them)
The Q is, does brazing rods come in other colors so the weld braze does
not stick out like a sore thumb? I was thinking of just leaving them
natural, no paint. If not I will have to spray them or dunk them in a 5 gal.
bucket of paint.
Sorry, just a thought...... I could use the mig but I was having fun with
the O/A and practicing at the same time.
On the barrel I turned the (A) just a smig 1/8 - 1/4 turn , and used the
(O) to bring the two flames together. I did them at a low setting and 1/8
turn Giving a 1/4 flame and high setting 1/4 turn giving a 1/2 flame on the
shoes. am I suppose to have a dime stack appearance if done right?
I am left handed so I have the barrel in my right hand, I tried left to
right and right to left and seem to do better left to right. Am I doing it
right from what I described?
I would like to see a video to see if I am doing it right.
Reply to
Don D
Loading thread data ...
That's because you were brazing, not welding. Braze wets out on the metal, it won't produce stack of dimes, unless you're doing it wrong.
Common brazing rod is a copper alloy (with silver, tin, zinc, etc as the alloying elements). Color varies from brassy yellow to off-white depending on the exact alloy. It is never going to give a good color match with steel.
Now get some welding rod and have even more fun with O/A. You can do welds on steel with O/A that look like TIG work.
I like to open the torch valves more than that, and regulate the flame with the regulators (huh, regulators, now why would I think they're for regulating things). The torch valves are then just for fine tweaking of the flame, or turning it on and off. As far as the stack of dimes effect, you get that when welding, not brazing, and it is achieved by manipulating the torch and filler. Each time you dab the filler into the weld pool, you chill it, freezing the edge of the weld pool. If you do this consistently and well as you move along the joint, you get the set of ripples we call a stack of dimes.
For a lefty, going left to right is called forehand technique. Going right to left would be called backhand technique. For welding, forehand works better on very thin materials, backhand works better for everything else. For brazing, forehand works better, period.
Forehand preheats the work ahead of the torch, which you want when brazing, while backhand concentrates heat in the weld puddle, which is what you normally want when welding.
Backhand technique just overheats the brass when brazing, so you don't want to do that. The metal should be hot enough to melt the braze on contact, you shouldn't have to melt brazing rod with the torch flame.
(You shouldn't melt welding rod with the torch flame either, dipping it in the weld puddle should do that, but that takes lots more heat in the weld puddle, so you need to use backhand technique for that.)
Reply to
Gary Coffman
Gary Thanks for your info, I will use the settings with the regulator instead of the barrel. And I may even try with the welding rod. What rod would be best to use? I will get one from a friend to see what it does. Thanks again Don D.
Reply to
Don D
Reply to
Gary Coffman

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.