Tile Saw with miter/bevel

I have a good tile saw from Harbor Freight and various blades. I can cut aluminum, brass, wood, steel, glass, ceramics, stone, tile, and
plastic, but I can't miter-bevel anything.
Can you suggest a tile saw with miter/bevel ability?
Doug Goncz Replikon Research Seven Corners, VA 22044-0394
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snipped-for-privacy@alum.mit.edu wrote:

I have one of these saws from Machinemart in the UK, sort of the UK equivalent to HF, http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/etc180-500w-electric-tile-cutter-230v/path/tile-cutters-tiling-accessories/brand/clarke
This has miter ability and is cheaply priced, is this sort of thing not available from HF or is your tile saw a different style of beast.

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On May 7, 2:40 pm, David Billington

Hi, David.
Yes, it is different:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item 0098684554
I am selling it as soon as I find a saw that can simultaneously miter and bevel wood, plastic, glass, metal, and stone. What I have is useful but not universal.
I have applied for a grant for a Super Shop. We'll see if it goes through. If it does, I can modify that saw for abrasive work, with some care. I'd rather have a properly sealed saw that can miter/bevel.
I also need to find 7 or 7-1/4 inch PSA sanding discs for the universal wet/dry miter/bevel tilting table saw.
Doug
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snipped-for-privacy@alum.mit.edu wrote:

Doug that sounds like a useful saw, could you find another link to one as the link you provided seems to have expired or been removed from ebay.

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On May 8, 6:19 am, David Billington

Ah. The auction has not yet started. I must have a cookie set that makes that link live.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber511
is the basic saw. Here is my text from the ad:
General:
This versatile power tilting table saw has been a real help to me in my work as an experimental machinist. I have assembled a collection of blades that make it a universal machine.
Included:
Abrasive blade cuts steel and stainless steel by friction. You can cut steel bed frames, angle, channel, bar, rod, pipe, tubing, and more. Diamond blade cuts machinable ceramics, stone, masonry, or glass. You can cut pavers, tiles, granite tiles and slabs, plate glass, optical glass, and more. Fine-toothed blade cuts thinner woods, plastics, thick cardboard, foam, and some sheet metals. This can be useful if you are book- binding, one of my favorite crafts. Metal cutting blade can sharpened and cleaned with a file in a vise. The carbide blades, which last much longer, must be sharpened by a saw griding shop. Metal cutting blade with carbide teeth cuts brass, bronze, aluminum, copper, and other softer, weaker, metals. You can cut extrustions, pipe, tubing, channels, angles, bar, rod, and more. Rip/crosscut blade with carbide teeth cuts woods and plastics like polyethylene, Bakelite (phenolic) Plexiglass (acrylic), Lexan (polycarbonate), fiberglass-reinforced plastics, foams, including synthetic woods. You can cut clear or opaque materials, sheet, angle, channel, and more. Sanding disc finishes lots of different kinds of work and do general grinding, like sharpening chisels or screwdrivers or putting a point on a scriber. A spare rip fence is included to set up round work for lengthwise slotting, and other tasks. A blade cover keeps you clean and safe. A seal protects the blade, which is driven directly. The cord stows neatly in a pocket in the base. The base has rubber feet. There is a carrying handle attached. The switch and circuit breaker are rubber covered and sealed.
The whole saw can be washed down with a spray to remove grit or swarf from outside and inside the well.
The saw must not be immersed in water.
All cuts can be made dry or wet with anything from a trickle to a flood. Always cut plastic and stone wet; always cut wood and steel dry. Coolant can be kerosene, alcohol, or water, or your choice. You adjust coolant flow by adding or removing coolant from the well. You'll probably want to add a sawdust port if you have a shop vacuum. You'd just hole-saw the port into the case, and then plug it when cuting wet. This is a great saw for cutting base plates of any thick, heavy material and beveling them so you can pick them up easily, yet it is also capable of fine, precise, accurate work. It has taken a lot of work to collect all these blades in one place to make this universal wet/dry saw, but the blades are available from many sources; they are not rare items. It's just rare to have them in one place.
Specific:
The 33 mm cut is just enough to almost fully cut through a length of 2x4 leaving only a little "hinge". The miter gage goes all the way from a 0 degree straight cut to 60 degrees over on either side. The tilting right half of the saw is for beveling material; the whole top doesn't tilt, but the right half does set up to exactly 15, 30, 45, or 60 degrees using folding stops. That is really handy for 24, 12, 8, and 6 sided joints. The saw takes 5/8 and 7/8 inch arbor blades of 7 inch or 7-1/4 inch diameter. The disc is 6 inches diameter and 0.093 inches thick. It is made of polycarbonate and is somewhat flexible, allowing work to be fed at slight angle for the finest finish. The rip fence adjusts in increments of about 1/16 inch or 1 mm to about 150 mm or 6 inches on either side of center. The rip fence rail is graduated in millimeters and 1/16 inches. The top is about 13 inches square. The saw is about 15 inches square. The motor uses 110 VAC, 60 Hz power and is a fixed speed, capacitor run type at 3600 rpm.
ote: There is a small repair to the case made using acrylic powder and liquid; it was damaged slightly in shipping. The motor base, which was also damaged in shipping, has been replaced completely wth a new part. The stainless steel top is slightly scratched from some stone work. The saw does not cut compound miter and bevel joints.
Don't cut tempered glass with any method; it's not safe; the sheet will shatter.
Common sense and caution cannot be built into any power tool and must be supplied by the operator.
Alternatives: http://www.google.com/search?q=%22wet+dry+table+saw%22
Competition: http://www.tile-saws-sales.com /
How to cut tile: http://www.rd.com/content/openContent.do?contentId 144
Please ask any questions you have before bidding on this fine power table saw.
Doug
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MK Diamond (the makers of the venerable MK-101) makes a 45-degree cast- aluminum workholder for cutting bevels. One could improvise something similar for other angles. They also make various accessories:
http://www.mkdiamond.com/tile/acc_00.html http://www.mkdiamond.com/tile/saw_101.html
For mitering you can clamp the work to the sled. Not very convenient but it's worked for me.
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