Tinning cookware

Not specifically about tinning, but when working with lead as a seam or grinding scratch filler in autobody work, beeswax is used on the hardwood paddles for smoothing the softened lead. Ordinary paraffin/canning wax probably works, too.. if you take precautions to avoid the fumes.

WB ......... metalworking projects

Thanks, Eric! This mixer bowl is pretty large, probably 15x15x15". Only the bottom 8" or so on the inside are bare. I think what I'd try is first of all to get some pure tin somewhere (?) or maybe some 4%silver-96%tin solder. I might be able to get some tallow over at Fisherman's Terminal where it is still used on wooden boats. Then I'd use a gentle pickle inside the bowl to clean the oxidation from the bare steel. I think I'd try citric acid and hot water and time.

I'd do the operation in the oven. I think I'd put a bunch of sal ammoniac powder (shaved from the block) in the bowl and put it in the oven set to 450F, and when it flows, wipe it around with a cotton cloth and then put in a bunch of either pure tin or the Ag/Sn solder as above and put it back in the oven until the solder melts, then try swirling it around and wiping it out with the same cloth. I don't think there's much to lose in this case since they've already bought a stainless replacement bowl, so if I screw this up I don't think it would hurt them any.

Grant

Wild bill says to use beeswax. I have heard of that too. As for the silver bearing solder I never thought of that. I use some stuff called "Tarasil" that's 96/4. No antimony, which some lead free solders contain (surprised me!). The silver bearing solders are easy to apply because they go through a slushy phase ( like that exact chemistry term?) before they become liquid so you can see when things are going to get too hot. I think the oven may be a mistake. I think the tin remaining may be damaged. But give it a try, I'm curious. Once again, body shops used to use pure tin to tin the steel before leading seams and dents. Maybe Wesco in Bellevue has some. Eric

I don't think you want either Antimony or Lead in the mix, nor anything else in "solder", Silver-bearing or not. Go with pure Tin.

You can buy Tin-plating solution, but I believe it may only plate onto less active elements, and Iron is MORE active than Tin. (Zn, Cr, Fe,

So where can I buy a chunk of pure tin?

Grant,

These guys are not likely to be of much use to you as on the wrong side of the pond, but they do mention the supply of tin for electroplating anodes so maybe ask a local electroplater for a start .

McMaster-Carr

Searching for tin brings up several types and quantities.

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Stan