According to :
O.K. The first of the ones which I got also as e-mail.
*Please* don't send me e-mail copies of your postings. Especially so, since the "From: " address is bogus, so a reply would be wasting my time.*Now*!
No -- the plate which slides into the T-slot on the compound has to be milled to fit. You don't *have* a T-slot on that lathe, unlike most larger (and some smaller) lathes.
So, you unscrew the center rod from the T-head blank, and screw it into the threaded hole in the top of the *modified* compound which you purchase.
There *may* be a different center rod, which should be part of what comes with the modified compound.
Hmm ... you note that it is intended to fit a 5C lathe spindle socket? And the only way *you* can provide a 5C socket is with this thing which you already got from eBay. And the only way to hold *that* is in a three-jaw or 4-jaw chuck on the lathe's spindle. There seems to be little point to getting a chuck to hold in a chuck via an adaptor. :-)
Granted, people have held much smaller lathe chucks for tiny workpieces in gigantic lathe chucks, but the size of *this* chuck is one which is probably already available for your lathe spindle.
I have one of those, which I use sometimes when the lathe is set up for collets, and I want to work on a small workpiece and don't want to heave around the heavy larger chucks for my lathe. But mine is set up for 5C collets.
Now -- you *could* use this in the spin indexer which you mention somewhere below (from what I remember from reading the e-mail earlier in the day). But that spin indexer is probably not as small as you think it is. :-)
Regular for that. Probably regular for whatever you're going to be doing. Save on buying the good ones until you have a machine which can benefit from them.
They can. Taps, under power, are asking for trouble. I tap under power in my lathe, but:
1) It has a bed turret, so the tool holders are always on center. 2) I have some releasing tap holders to mount in that turret.When the tap reaches a pre-set depth, it pulls part of the holder to release the coupling to the rigidly mounted part in the turret. This allows the tap and part of the holder to spin freely until I can stop and reverse the spindle to back the tap out of the just made threads.
You don't have the releasing tap holders, and I don't think that your spindle can be run at reasonable speeds and torque for this -- depending on the size of the tap, of course.
Yes. You may have the trash pickup people really mad at you, and you *may* be violating some ordinance where you live if you toss metal turnings into the general trash.
O.K. Two-flute or three-flute plunge fairly nicely though either may take more power than you have in stainless depending on the diameter, so you may need to pre-drill the holes to depth at a smaller diameter first.
Yes.
I mean the shank, which is a Morse taper to fit the spindle in the mag base drill (or at least in *some* mag base drills), and the other end is designed to hold the Rotabroach.
Yes -- it can be used to fit a Rotabroach to a lathe spindle, though I'm not sure about the torque available from your lathe spindle for running a Rotabroach in stainless steel.
O.K.
Individual reamers as you need them -- unless you luck into a nice price on eBay -- and can be sure that they are in good condition.
*Don't* bid on a batch of loose reamers. They have almost certainly been beating against each other and have dulled the edges. If they are in individual tubes, or in a roll-up tool pouch, the chances are better.And *never* run a reamer backwards in the hole. It breaks down the edges very quickly.
Correct. The range is limited in part by the length of the screw which grips the workpiece -- though there are other thing which also play a role in deciding.
Hmm ... 36 and 10. How about 36 and 40? The index head for the Emco-Maier C5 mill (not to be confused with the 5C collet size) has those two, plus two other counts -- all build into the one fixture. You simply shift the spring-loaded pin from one threaded hole to another to select the number of positions available.
And even the really tiny index head for the Unimat SL-1000 (long out of production) had available four index hubs with those four hole counts. But they typically came with only the 36 hole one, and you had to buy the others as accessories.
You'll have to look on eBay for these, and beware that the pricing on the Unimat stuff has started into "collector's item" range.
The only thing found on eBay at the moment with a search on "emco index head" is:
7594760412which is probably too big for your purpose, but which is a very nice one, with a rather unusual 4-jaw universal chuck -- that is, the jaws move inward at the same rate, just like a 3-jaw. That might be very nice for mounting on your lathe for turning truly square plates -- except that I don't see the outside grip jaws for it.
O.K. You may find it larger than you think. :-)
The plastic gears, I suspect. I've seen lots of postings about those giving way in some of the import milling machines.
For scribing a circle?
[ ... ]
Buy a *good* drill index filled with number-sized drills. You will find a table embossed into the metal of the top tray which lists the body and tap drill sizes for common number-sized screws.
Or -- look up the proper table in your _Machinery's Handbook_.
Or prepare to compile (language is 'C') a program which I wrote some time ago:
======================================================================
For a #3-56.000 screw: Clearance diameter: 0.099 Tap drill diameter: 0.081 ======================================================================
And you'll still need the drill index to convert those decimal sizes to the number size. :-)
Mine is a 3" one, IIRC. Made by Starrett.
Yes -- if your *machine* is rigid enough to cut the threads correctly.
[ ... ]
Yes -- in part just to find a bandsaw which will run slow enough to cut stainless steel. Most inexpensive (and light) bandsaws have speeds only appropriate for wood or metals like brass or aluminum. They are *way* too fast for mild steel even -- let along stainless.
The same rules apply. It is the blade speed which is the major problem. (Actually, you *might* be able to get away with the horizontal/vertical bandsaw in vertical mode -- if you don't need to cut too far from the edge of the workpiece, as the clearance for the other side is rather limited.
Enjoy, DoN.
P.S. I'm getting to dread weekends, since that is when I get hit by several of your long postings.