Needed: Bandsaw Table Trunnions

Can anyone here make or know where I can get trunnions made for a bandsaw table made?(I'll of course need to get a table also).
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Tools /
Thanks a lot.
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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As about a dozen people mentioned the last time you posted this, get them as spare parts from Harbor Freight and make some minor mods to get them to fit.
Searcher7 wrote:

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Now if I could have gotten what I needed frm Harbor Frieght, then obviously I would not be posting here about it.
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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But as usual, you omit pertinent details: Like exactly what parts you need and what options you might have investigated.
But from what I see, you could order ALL the table parts for almost any of the HF units and bolt them to your frame. It's when you insist on trying to match something that you run into trouble.
If you want, I use a machine tool repair/rebuilder that would be glad to machine up anything you want. Plan on about $95 an hour for their services.
Searcher7 wrote:

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The question was simple. I asked if anyone knew where I could get trunnions made for a bandsaw table...
I don't know whether or not the proper size trunnions can be machined from existing ones or not.
I never received that catalog from Harbor Freight, or responses to my e-mails. Calling them is not an option because I'm at work during their business hours and there are no HarborFreight stores anywhere near me.
And I couldn't find any what I was looking for at the site. I donwloaded the only manual there for a 14" bandsaw, but until I can speak with someone at the company, I cannot go any further.
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.

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Darren, I didn't follow previous thread, so this may be a repeat.
http://www.emachineshop.com / Gives you the CAD software, and will return parts, at (what I have heard) is a reasonable price.
I don't see the lower blade guide in your pictures, do you need that too?
If you need somebody to make the drawings, (so parts can be fabricated), then they will need the entire machine, so they can align the blade with the table.
I hope this is not a sentimental tool.
Dave
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wrote:

Thanks, I'll have to look into this.

Oh, oh. In all the previous posts in multiple threads on this no one mentioned anything about a lower blade guide. I checked "Bandsaw Handbook" and it also doesn't mention this. But I found one pic of what looks like what you are referring to *below* the table.
The bottom line is that if this is another part I have to try to find, that would complicate things and this tool is that much closer to the garbage.

No. I actually bought it on recommendations from here when it and a drill press popped up on Craigslist.(See: "Advice: Drill Press and Band Saw pick-up")
Thanks.
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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On Sun, 13 Jul 2008 15:28:06 -0700, Searcher7 wrote:

...
See comment below re table.

...
...
On my cheap HF wood-cutting bandsaw, the upper and lower blade guides each have two movable hard-rubber blocks that straddle the blade, and a roller bearing (about the same size as a rollerblade bearing) at the back of the blade, perpendicular to the blade such that a side surface of the outer ring of the bearing prevents the blade from moving back, as shown in picture at http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyId 4 or diagram near middle of http://www.woodworkinghistory.com/bandsaw_syllabus.htm
This is different from the blade guides on my cheap HF metal-cutting band- saw, which has 3 bearings per guide, one on each side of and perpendicular to the blade, and one parallel to blade and behind it so that the back of the blade presses against its outer surface, as in picture at http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID 28&cs 342&pcsm
If you buy a $10 package of 8 or 16 rollerblade bearings and mounting spacers etc. you probably can fix up some workable guides.
Re trunnions and table: I occasionally tilt the table on my wood-cutting bandsaw, but more than 95% of the time I use it with the table flat. If you can't find pre-made trunnions for your bandsaw, it probably isn't worthwhile to make them; instead, just bolt on a fixed-position table (eg, made from a Formica- covered sink cutout, or a few square feet of thick aluminum). Then spend some time fixing up good rip and cross-cut guides, which will be far more important than getting the table to tilt.
-jiw
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Thanks.
Ok, I'll have to re-read your post a few times so I can get everthing right.
But I took more pics of the bandsaw after opening it up, and it looks as though I'm definitely going to have to replace what I believe are cast aluminum parts. I dropped the blade guide and you can see what happended in the pic.
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Tools /
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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Nowhere in this thread have you mentioned the brand name on this saw. If you don't know, you have almost no chance of finding parts that will fit.
So, lets assume it is a Grizzly G0580, (A BAD assumption, but they have a picture.)
http://www.grizzly.com/images/partslists/g0580_pl.pdf
and go thru the parts you need (leaving out stuff you can get at a hardware store)
Motor, key, pulley, motor mount, belt Upper guide support (You can't weld potmetal, and epoxy isn't going to work) Blade guide support, lower guide support, blade guide (2), thumbscrew, upper spacing sleeve, bearing, flange screw Table, table insert, trunnion (2) scale, trunnion clamp shoe, knob And don't forget the stand.
This isn't a band saw, it's a mistake. Let it go.
Dave
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wrote:

Give up? Never! :-)
It's a good thing I don't need everything you mentioned.
The company(KTF) that made this bandsaw no longer exists. But I'm told this is a Chinese import.
The bandsaw, like the drill press I got with it, had never been used, but it spent time outdoors.
I'll take James' advice and made a (non-tilting)table
My biggest problem is that even though the size of every component I have can be measured, I'm not going to get that info from any place I'd be able to buy the replacements parts so I can verify. So it'll be a crap shoot.
Anyway, I need to replace the cheaply made upper and lower guide assemblys/blocks/holders. (If I can find the correct size).
I measured the (rusted)blade at about 92".
And as for a motor, I've been getting conflicting advice and this has me confused. Of the two motors I was watching, I have yet to figure out why they wouldn't work for me: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=250266499391 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=260261405648
But I can only go by what I already have: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Tools/DrillPress2.jpg?t=1216087177
So I'll just have to keep looking.
Thanks.
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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Darren,
Don't buy a motor until the saw is repaired.
Make a detailed drawing of your parts and send it to me. I'll compare to my 14" Delta, to see if it's a direct knockoff.
Dave
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On Tue, 15 Jul 2008 09:27:39 -0700, Mechanical Magic wrote:

Darren, If you make such a drawing I could compare it also, to my HF #32208 bandsaw. Also see parts diagrams and list on pages 20-25 in 2nd URL. http://ww4.harborfreight.com/zcom/product/Product.do?compid0&itemNumber2208 http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/32000-32999/32206.PDF Incidentally, HF customer service hours are 9-4 PST, which means they are available until 7pm EST for technical questions about parts. Of course the order line is open all the time if you just need prices on parts.
Incidentally, HF has a benchtop wood-cutting bandsaw for $129.99 that would do for small projects. 62" blade rather than 93", 9"x3.6" throat rather than 14"x6", rated 1/3 HP rather than 1. http://ww4.harborfreight.com/zcom/product/Product.do?compid0&itemNumber980
If you plan to cut any metal, get a metal-cutting bandsaw instead - eg http://ww4.harborfreight.com/zcom/product/Product.do?compid0&itemNumber762 - sometimes on sale for somewhat less - rather than attempting to do it with a wood-cutting bandsaw. -jiw
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HarborFreight is not open during the hours I can call, and there are no locations near me, so I'll have to come up with a different source for parts.
Here are some parts I took measurements of: http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Tools /
Thanks.
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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wrote:

I actually would like to get a motor anyway for my drill press.
Nevertheless, I don't know what parts youneed to see, but I took more pics and posted them with some measurements: http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Tools /
Thanks.
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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As usual, you neglected to give information that might help someone give you a hand. Shrug.
Searcher7 wrote:

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I think it is time that you buy a used bridgeport and a boring head.
Wes -- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
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Wes wrote:

Or a coping saw, file, and a copy of Persig's "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance"
Kevin Gallimore
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?!?
Ok, I have two out of three...
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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Well, if I had "used Bridgeport" money and space, as well as tolerant neighbors... :-)
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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