Wall wart for Mitutoyo Digimatic DRO? "Regulated" power transformer?

I purchased a Mitutoyo Digimatic DRO at auction and it is missing the power transformer. The DRO looks like the one in the link:
http://wttool.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code009-0500&Category_Code0090500p1 I am antsy to power this up and to see if the display & scales are OK.
I need to know the wattage of the "wall wart". If you have such a DRO, please see if there is a wattage listed on the transformer and respond.
I have contacted Mitutoyo and they are sending the manuals - takes 4 weeks. When I spoke w/ the Mitutoyo customer rep he gave me the Mit P/N for the power supply and stated that the power supply was a regulated 5.0 vdc, costs $31 and that no one else seems to make such an animal. I surfed online and found numerous "regulated" 5 vdc wall warts for under $10. How regulated is regulated? Mitutoyo rep said the input needed to be 5.0 +/- 0.1 volt. I would like to save the difference if possible but I do not want to fry anything.
Thanks
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The label on mine says 5.0V Regulated, 0.5A. There is nothing else on the label. Looks like 2.5W to me.
Randy

http://wttool.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code009-0500&Category_Code0090500p1
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Aribert wrote:

http://wttool.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code009-0500&Category_Code0090500p1
Be paranoid about wall wart voltage ratings. Measure BEFORE you connect. Don't forget to verify polarity too.
--
Keith Bowers - Thomasville, NC

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[snip]
Remember that unloaded the wall wart will likely put out a few volts more than its rating. You can stick an appropriately sized resistor in there as a load if you like, but if it looks OK I don't bother.
Tim
--
Google is not the only search engine.

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If unloaded it puts out a few volts more then its not a regulated supply. There are a lot of unregulated ones out there but at least the regulated ones are normally labeled "regulated" if sold after market. It does pay to make sure as not everything is happy if the voltage is higher than what its supposed to be. I recently looked at a regulated multi voltage unit that was not happy. I was starting to melt the plastic case and it wasn't anywhere near its rated 1.2A. You could smell the unit as you entered the room. It got binned but it had caused the unit it powered to fail due to overvoltage. Considering it was supposed to have thermal protection it was well hot and when I dismantled the unit an hour after unplugging it the transformer was still to hot to handle.
Tim Auton wrote:

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I have a similar older mit DRO that had the power supply inside and has failed. I got a good regulated supply (not wall wart) from digikey and it seems to have worked. Now I need to find some scales at a price I can afford....
Anyway, build your own from a good grade regulated supply. It isn't hard and you will KNOW that it's giving good power at enough amps that it will never give troubles.
I believe it's digikey.com but there are a ton of other suppliers out there also. Even an old PC power supply has a 5V regulated output that you could scab from.
Koz
Aribert wrote:

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Either digikey.com or mouser.com will have a 5 v DC regulated wall wart, although you may have to change the connector to get the pin polarity right. My Mitutoyo DRO wall wart is marked center pin positive, the more common way, so you're probably ok with the off the shelf unit. You might want to start with mouser.com first as they don't have a minimum while digikey.com has a service charge for small orders.
Good luck-
Paul T.

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Sounds like standard TTL logic specs. And, sounds like the Mitutoyo rep needs to get out a bit more often. Did he also tell you that only they make 3/8-16 bolts, and they cost $5 each?
Jameco is a good online source for small quantities of reliable wall-wart supplies in various voltages and currents, regulated and unregulated.
Make sure you get the right polarity and connector type.
Do *not* use the power supply from an old PC. It is true that it is a 5V regulated supply, but it requires some extra effort to get it to start - you need to give it at least a certain amount of load, and you may need to short a couple of the wires together. You can figure all this stuff out on the internet, but it's not worth the hassle for this particular application - it would be like using the engine from a junked Chevy to turn your drill press.
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And just what's wrong with a 327 drill press? :-) Ken.
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just use a 7 or 8v power supply and a 7805

make
you
short
it
press.
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I think the best solution is to rob the power supply out of an old PC. They're regulated +5, -5, +12 & -12 so they're a bit of overkill but they're well regulated and cheap and easy to find, etc. I've seen them at Goodwill stores for $2.99 and you probably know someone that has an older system that's not worth using any more that will let you have it for free. :-)
Don't get one that's in a newer ATX system though because they need a signal from the motherboard to turn on. There's a way around it but it just makes it more trouble to get going. IIRC even the very first PC had a power supply rated at 5Amps or more on the +5 and the later ones are rated at 15Amps or more so any of them that are in working order should be OK.
Best Regards, Keith Marshall snipped-for-privacy@progressivelogic.com
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit there." - Will Rogers (1879-1935).

http://wttool.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code009-0500&Category_Code0090500p1
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Aribert wrote:

http://wttool.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code009-0500&Category_Code0090500p1
I have one of these: http://shop.store.yahoo.com/repc/pam1m1pdaacp.html
It is a 5 V 1A regulated wall wart. Has a 2.1 mm coaxial power connector, center positive.
It's yours for the price of shipping. Want it?
--Winston
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snipped-for-privacy@c3net.net (Aribert) wrote in message

http://wttool.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code009-0500&Category_Code0090500p1
Equipment makers been shipping switching power supplies as wall warts for some time now, they aren't the same as your standard bell-transformer-in-a-plastic-cube ones. For one thing, they've got far better regulation than the linear regulated ones, for another they dissipate a lot less heat. They're also more expensive. I've no idea if Mitutoyo supplies such an animal, but that might be why their replacement price is so high. If they designed the thing with a switching power supply in mind, there might not be a whole lot of on-board circuit protection and power conditioning in the unit like you'd need if you designed a circuit for use with a standard wall wart.
The other thing to watch for is the proprietary power connector. Some manufacturers(HP for one) like to use non-standard power connectors so you HAVE to buy their stuff for replacements. Sometimes you can gen up something with brass tubing, brazing rod, hot melt glue and/or heat shrink tubing, sometimes not.
If it were me, I'd fork over the bucks for the real deal, the list on that unit is high enough I wouldn't want to fry something by accident. If you DID find something wrong after hooking it up to the OEM power box, the factory might be a little more apt to fix it for you than if you had hooked up something else to power it up.
It was an interesting page, I didn't know Mitutoyo had any US manufacturing facilities.
Stan
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