Frost P240 blacking kit

If the tools are steel and not too large then heating till hot and dunking in old engine oil is what i do, never used a chemical kit or do't know if any good.

Mike

It works just fine, I have used it for years without problems. --

Chris Edwards (in deepest Dorset) "....there *must* be an easier way!"

If the tools are steel and not too large then heating till hot and dunking in old engine oil is what i do, never used a chemical kit or do't know if any good.

Mike

---------------------------------------------------------- How hot does the steel need to be Mike?

Cliff Coggin.

A dull glow is good, but make sure you drop it in deep oil. I remember dropping a clamp in the 1/2 inch of oil in the tray rather than the pot when at school and the room filled with smoke.

Of course after that we did it every time :)

On or around Wed, 15 Apr 2009 00:22:50 +0100, Cliff Ray enlightened us thusly:

However, I presume this technique is only good for non-heat-treated stuff.

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er way!" =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0

A few years back I bought one of the "Black-it" kits advertised in ME and MEW. It works ok, and is a cold process, but it does involve a lot of messing about with different solutions. I still have the kit, but like the other folks who've replied, I now generally use oil blacking.

Mike

ote:

sier way!" =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0

I have used te chemical process for some time on gun work, it involves a saturated solution of caustic soda with oxidising agents in it, the proces is quick and produces a deep black, however hot caustic is nasty, giving off slightly toxic fumes and the chemical dissolves skin rather fast. Peter

Thanks all. I find the kit rather expensive, about ¤60,- overhere. But if the result justifies the cost, why not. I am a bit reluctant to heat my qtc to cherry red and dunk it in waste oil though. Best regards, Dirk