Grinding chuck jaws

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If its a dremel clone, which from the piture it looks like then a couple of big hose clamps round the body securing a bar which can be clamped in the toolpost would do it As for dressing a wheel magnetic stand on lathe ways with dresser clamper to post, move carriage back and forward, use cross slide to alter DOC?

Dave

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Some "Milliput" or something similar can be moulded onto your grinder body to hold the bar steadier. Some clingfilm will stop it sticking. All clamped as above.

It is like a dremel, but much bigger. (I used to have a smaller one, but it somehow disappeared. It did have flats on that one that I could have clamped to).

Good idea re the hose clamps. Never thought of that. I was thinking of somehow making like a bridge type of clamp, but I think that would have been unstable. Hose clamps sounds like a much better idea and quicker to implement as well.

Also, good idea re the mag mounting of the diamond dresser.

Best regards, Dave Colliver.

Here is my die-grinder toolholder, which I made initially for the purpose of de-bellmouthing some chuck jaws, its prolly a bit OTT, as is my usual way. Light alloy was what I had to hand at the time:

Yes, I was thinking I may have had to make something like that, but I thought for all I am doing, it probably is a bit OTT. I just wanted something quick (and efficient) just so that I can get on with building my engine...

Perhaps when I eventually turn my lathe into a pseudo cylindrical grinder, I will go to a bit more length for something like this. However, it may be worth me getting an air grinder.

Thanks.

Best regards, Dave Colliver.

Is that the Ferm combi-tool thingy?

If so then the plastic bit next to the chuck unscrews, and you can mount the tool in something vertical with (I think, but check) an 18 x 1.5 mm threaded hole.

The 18 x 1.5 mm thread seems common to many such tools, including Dremels and most dremeloids.

-- Peter Fairbrother

Hi Peter,

Yes, it is like that ferm combi tool. (Mine has Toledo tct15 on it, which is what I wrote, but it looks like they are the same). Yes, I did notice the nose has a thread on it (didn't know what it was... thanks for clarifying). I would have thought though that just supporting on the nose wouldn't be enough as there is all the weight of the body the other side.

However, if I combine that idea with Charles' idea when I come to make a more permanent mounting for it, it could be a good method for location.

Best regards, Dave Colliver.

The threaded nose is intended for mounting the drill in a vertical stand, which it does quite well - but a horizontal mounting may well need some extra support at the back end.

Also the m18 x 1.5 thread was originally chosen for a Dremel, which is smaller and lighter.

-- Peter Fairbrother

Ah, right. I wasn't aware of that... Makes sense. For a horizontal mount, it would not have been suitable.

Best regards, Dave Colliver.

Well, I have gone and done it now. Ground them up.

I was surprised as to how much I had to take off to clean them up thoroughly.

I marked each jaw with black marker then ground them. The first strikes were at the rear of the jaw and I set my dial index. By the time I had cleaned all 3 jaws, I had taken about 0.28mm off (radius).

No wonder my bars were never round and I also had probs with small bar riding over the tool. (I know, a bad workman never blames his tools, I wasn't blaming them, I just never took account of this problem...)

Anyhow, all done. Just have to do it again on my other lathe when I have that up and running.

I fastened my grinder to a bar with some hose (jubilee) clips. This bar I mounted in my toolpost. I had problems with the grinder moving when I switched it on initially. However, when it was stable, I was then able to work with it. I think I will make a proper clamping arrangement for it.

Best regards, Dave Colliver.