Internal thread cutting advice needed



Oops. Don't unlock the half nuts. I don't envy you.
Wes
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Wes Wrote:

Wes,
As I said for this particular project I might not need to do th internal thread, but things change quickly around here! I am going t do some threading as soon as I get the tool, just for practice.
Cheers,
Garth
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Last time I did any internal threading I mounted the tool bit upsid
down and cut the threads at the back of the bore,easier to see what' happening and the swarf falls away from the cutting edge. It also seems to be more natural for increasing the depth of cut,you'r always adding as in normal turning.
Alla
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Guys,
Tried to cut my first thread on the ML7 last night. Started with a external M10 x 1.5, and after getting the first one the wrong pitc (can't count gear teeth), the second one actually worked! M10 nut wen straight on after about four cuts.
I used the 'turning the chuck back by hand' method, which is ver tedious. Does anyone have a design for the handle mentioned on thi thread for the ML7?
After cutting the thread, I was messing about with the thread dia indicator and other things thread cutting related. What I found wa that it would have been far quicker to withdraw the tool after th first pass, disengage the leadscrew, wind the saddle back with th saddle wheel, reengage leadscrew at random and start again. When th tool is alongside the thread, adjust the topslide so that the too matches the thread, then wind back by hand (only a couple of turn needed), then increase cut depth again.
Is this a valid method or is it considered dodgy?
Cheers,
Garth
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How about this
http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/Spindle_Driving_Handle___Myford_Lathes.html
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DR_G wrote:

Never used that. Also, it isn't very good for metric threads. I always reverse and keep the saddle's locknut engaged.

Really not good! You need to make a few passes without feeding inward and then you'll *never* find the right position again.

Yes. :-)
Nick
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Nick Mueller wrote:

Not locknut. :-) Read: Keep the leadscrew engaged.
Nick
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DR_G wrote:

Take a look at the older style bicycle handlebar stems.
Simply a bit of tube, with the end slashed at an angle, with a bit of metal with the matching angle upon it, and a drawbar.
Quite easier to make, than the expanding mandrels that are often put forth.
'Course, a couple rubber washers and a drawbolt to squash then outwards to fit tight on the spindle bore, is another way...
Cheers Trevor Jones
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Trevor Jones Wrote:

A quill stem I think they are called? Good idea.
Cheers,
Garth
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writes

http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/Spindle_Driving_Handle___Myford_Lat hes.html
I think you will find it is a lot slower than using a mandrel handle - the time and care needed to get back into perfect alignment (and taking care to avoid backlash problems) is considerable; I know, I've tried it.
For (most) imperial threads, you can easily use the tdi, and cutting under power is perfectly straightforward.
David
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I see an invertor and a reversing switch sometime in your future. Not this Christmas, maybe, but sometime...
Mark Rand RTFM
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Mark Rand Wrote:

Mark,
For the amount of thread cutting I'll be doing, a handle might b cheaper and easier!
Regards,
Garth
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