Just got my first milling machine - a Centec 2A

Just collected a Centec 2A with the good vertical head and I am strongly inclined to plug it in, but it has been in store for ages (I
am still trying to remove some of the gloop using petrol - must have had Shellac in it). Obviously I will go over it for electrical safety (single phase), but I wonder if anyone has commissioning advice ?
Also I don't have an arbor for the horizontal milling arm - though it came with a stub arbor, the sort you would use on a lathe. Is there a source for 2MT full arbors, or should I just use the stub arbor (saves mounting the overarm anyway).
Any Centec owners that can offer advice would be appreciated.
Thanks Steve
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my friend has a centec 2
not easy to get parts for them
john ward makes the riser blocks for them
contact here
http://www.latheparts.co.uk /
there is a yahoo group for them .....the manual is on there
the mt2 arbors are on ebay all the time
they take mt2 collets ...with 3/8 whit thread ...
these are on ebay as well ...best deal done by chester ...no postage
mates converted his with a screw type bottle jack .......as the lever at the back of the machine is a pain to use ....
other than that they fetch a premium price when sold on ebay ......
thats what i told my friend to do .resell the thing ..and with the money buy a better x2 or x3 with some of the money raised...rather than buy the raiser .
best models are the ones with raiser and quil travel ...and upwards of that .
all the best..markj
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Hi Mark, thanks for the info
I did think about an X2, but then everything else I have is old British gear, and I read the lengthy list of reasons why they have to be stripped and re-assembled from new to sort them out (see Arc Euro trade site). So in the end I opted to keep my classic workshop theme going, I can always upgrade at a later date.
Useful to know who makes the raising blocks. Not sure whether I will need them yet. Quill head looks fine, table seems fine, but as you say the micrometer round the back for raising the knee seems hardly ideal.
As for the long arbor, first place I looked was eBay and there were none there I could see - lots with Int tapers though.
This one came with a collet holder and collets, and it will also take my ER25 collets and holder, so there should be no problems there.
Steve
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dont think the 2a came with a quill so you got a better machine ...
there is very little room under the head ...so your ER chuck will take some of that up
mt2 arbor ...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-Mt-LONG-MILLING-ARBOR-Myford-Boxford-Warco-Naerok_W0QQitemZ190064902497QQihZ009QQcategoryZ41369QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247
All the best.markj
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btw .its important you ask him the size of the shaft ...what hole size the cutters have ...
it may be something like 16mm ..your stuffed then .rare ...leave it alone if its 16mm
go for first, a 1 inch size arbor.........
all the best.......mark
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One day you might actually learn how to write the English language, was even simple punctuation not taught to you at school? :~(
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ENGLISH.....
good then
here's a few choice words
Piss Off !! and FUCK OFF !!
And stop wearing those tank tops and anoraks.
All is not the best..mark
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wrote in message

<snip>
ENGLISH.....
good then
here's a few choice words
Piss Off !! and FUCK OFF !!
</quote>
So the answer is no...
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On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 16:38:10 -0700 (PDT), Cheshire Steve
Steve,

I've just re-jigged my workshop so that the left side of the Centec 2A is easily reached. That's after living for several years with a cupboard adjacent to the left side of the mill and almost requiring binoculars to read the knee dial :-)
Risers for the vertical head are probably the next thing for me to get or make, since the lack of vertical space under the quill head can be a problem, especially when using a Clarkson holder.
Jim.
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`
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I've had a 2B for several years and although I look at other mills I don't think that there are any of the same size that are any better.
I use EP 80/90 oil in the quill and the gearbox, don't use grease in the quill. Keep an eye on the oil level in the quill if it leaks like mine does. (Has anyone stripped and replaced the oil seals in a vertical head as I would like to hear the pitfalls before I do mine.)
I was given the gearbox and quill oil information by a Tim Collis who at one time had a very nice 2A and was fount of information about Centecs. I've lost touch with him in recent times so if he reads this group maybe he will get in touch.
One way of raising the head is to mill a dovetail into the top of the overarm. That way gives a (small) increase in clearance between the bed and the quill and allows a quick switch to horizontal milling. The only reason I haven't done this is I would have to knock a hole through a wall into the kitchen to get clearance behind the mill and I don't think that would be appreciated!
John
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jlh45
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jlh45 Wrote:

Hi John, my first post here... I have just stripped the quill assembly from my vertical head, its fairly straightforward, remove the aluminum guard from the top of the spindle (3 cap heads) and undo the top nut, i used an angle grinder spanner to fit the holes whilst holding the spindle still with a spanner at the bottom. remove the spring and nut. Then to get the large castalated nut off I used a 5" 4 jaw chuck and tightened gently it into the grooves, be warned this is a LEFT HAND THREAD!!!!! now remove the 3 further cap heads on the top housing, revealed by removal of the previous spindle top guard and remove the housing complete with bevel gear. Then remove the small hex hed grubscrew that goes into the slot on the quill just below the quill clamp. The quill then comes out the bottom of the head. as to undoing the bearing tention nuts, i had to make up a couple of castalated "sockets" out of steel tube to undo them. then the spindle knocks out with a hide mallet. I havent obtained new oil seals yet, but here looks a good bet... http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath _21
Angus
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Hi Angus
Thanks for the info - just what I needed and the link to the web site looks really useful.
John
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jlh45
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In article

Not sure how soluble shellac is in hydrocarbon solvents (petrol, paraffin etc.). The usual solvent in french polish is ethanol. If you are still having trouble getting it cleaned off, try methylated spirit, or (better, but dearer) surgical spirit. That's always assuming it was in fact shellac, of course.
David
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David Littlewood

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Steve, Mark is correct that the manual is in the files section of http://groups.yahoo.com/group/centec_milling_machines / Unfortunately the site is not very busy but there is someone else there who has had raising blocks made. I think they have all sold but he may do another run. They were MUCH cheaper than the ones on the other site mentioned. I have had my 2A for about five years but have yet to power it up as I still have not finished building my workshop. Somebody else wants the house finished first! The 1" horizontal arbour was actually made by the PO. He did not include a key as he thought it better the cutter spun on the arbour rather than damage the gears if the cutter were to jam. It looks to be a straightforward turning job apart from milling the flats for the spanner.
Roy 2A CB988
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elj221c
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John Ward has the bare castings for the riser ...if you fancy doing the machining yourself ... for about 50
This info was given to me by himself ... He does batches ... When they run out ... it may be months before he decides to do any more
anyway ...just before Christmas or there abouts , when i visited him, he had several .
BTW .he isn't very email savvy .....he does not have a computer at home ......so phone is best.
all the best.markj
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Five years ! I have only had mine a day and want to get it going. That is true patience :-)
I have applied to the Yahoo group - though it took me four attempts to enter a correct decoding of the distorted wording that is the anti- spammer protection. Hopefully that will answer my questions.
I thought 8 inches between the quill and the table would be good enough to start, but I can see how that gets rapidly eaten up. Two inches for the ER25 and then at least another inch for the cutter, but that still leaves 5 inches. If I need a really big gap then I can mill in the lathe. Just so long as I don't need a big traverse and a large gap at the same time. Only 6 5/8 inches for the horizontal spindle may be a bit more of a problem, but then I am making small items right now.
It will do for now.
Steve
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Cheshire Steve wrote:

I have a 2A that gets a little use. It came with the "good" vertical head, and power feed (re-motored to run on our 110 volts) as well as a single phase motor. It has the metal stand, and I still have the switches and contactors for 3 phase use, buried in the base.
I thought I paid too much for it, but, for now, would not consider replacing it, unless something much nicer came down the pipe.
The headspace goes fast! You start looking at all the tooling with an eye to picking the shortest one.
It pretty much has the same envelope, as a Sherline mill, but it was made in a time when iron was fairly inexpensive, and these mills were built to an indstrial standard, more than a hobby one.
I have made a few end mill holders from drawbar thread equipped drill shank adapters and blank end MT2 arbors.
Usefull enough a tool to keep in the basement, where a larger machine would not fit very well.
I figure a riser block is in the future for the 2A, though. A couple extra inches of headspace will allow us of a proper vise, rather than the low profile drill press vise that lives there now.
So far the inability to come up with a vise I like, that is an appropriate size, has been my biggest beef with it. Small worries indeed!
Cheers Trevor Jones
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Thanks Trevor,
It seems a slightly odd combination of industrial strength castings and modest table size, but no complaints there. I think of it more like a hobby sized machine made to industrial standards.
What oil do you use in the box and vertical head ?
Steve
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