Keyless chuck and casting questions

I'm looking for a 16mm mt3 keyless chuck, any recommendations?, someone mentioned one here awhile ago but I can't find it.

Also, can steel be cast? I know iron can be cast, but cast iron is too brittle and too low in tensile strength for what I want.
Thanks,
-- Peter Fairbrother
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Peter Fairbrother wrote:

Any material that can be melted can be cast JW˛
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You can get stronger grades of iron such as Spheroidal Graphite (SG) this is more ductile and won't snap so easily. The crank and front axle castings on teh traction engine i'm building are made from this.
Jason
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Car brake discs are, or were when I tinkered with cars, cast steel.
Cliff Coggin.
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Cliff Coggin wrote:

Car disks have never been cast steel or at least if there ever were any such it's exceedingly rare and I've never come across any. They're cast iron on every application I know about and I've got a catalogue that covers just about every car in the UK.
Motorcycles do however often use stainless steel for disks for cosmetic reasons given that they're exposed to view. The ones on both my Hondas have no rust even after sitting outside for 30 years.
--
Dave Baker



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...except for the exotica that are starting to use ceramics...
Regards, Tony
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Tony Jeffree wrote:

Carbon fibre has been around longer but yes ceramics are just starting to make an impact.
--
Dave Baker



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Well I can only relay what the engineering company told me when I had my Mk.1 Granada discs skimmed.
Cliff.
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Steel can be cast OK but it needs quite a bit more heat than iron to make it flow. From practical experience its contraction is about 2.5% which can make quite a difference on the pattern. See December 2007 - 1 at http://www.gw-svr-a.org.uk/bridgnorth_pattern_shop_2007.html
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Something like this do?
http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/3MT_DRILL_CHUCKS.html
Regards Wavey Dave
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Aren't these any good for you then? You've not said anything either way !!
Regards Wavey Dave
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by All the car discs I have trued up are decidedly cast iron. I once skimmed two discs in situ by jacking up the wheel, with a very long hand held TC tool, and the engine driving the wheel in bottom gear, resting the tool on the caliper. I then trued the disc with a carborundum hone. T. Oliver
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wrote:

by All the car discs I have trued up are decidedly cast iron. I once skimmed two discs in situ by jacking up the wheel, with a very long hand held TC tool, and the engine driving the wheel in bottom gear, resting the tool on the caliper. I then trued the disc with a carborundum hone. T. Oliver
Awesome!
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On Wed, 04 Mar 2009 22:11:49 +0000, Peter Fairbrother

I recently bought an Accu-Pro MT3 keyless chuck for the Lathe from J&L, on one their flyer special deals a few months back. It actually compares quite well against the Albrecht I have for the Bridgy, if perhaps just a little bit 'looser' in the action.
Peter
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I've had an Italian-made 16mm Jacobs keyless for a number of years now, it's nicely finished, smooth action, but it won't grip the larger drills for toffee.
Tim
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On Fri, 6 Mar 2009 12:49:28 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@onetel.com wrote:

Mine is the 1-13mm size, as I've got MT drills for larger than that. Been doing quite a bit with the 13mm drill recently, about 50mm deep into phozzy bronze bar before boring, for some mini compressor cylinders I'm making.. It got a wee bit squeeally and grabby but the chuck held on the drill without slipping, although the 3-jaw did let go once:)
Peter
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IIRC John S uses the ones from Arc Euro, http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Chucks/Drill-Chucks might be worth prodding him to make sure....
Dave
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wrote:

On the low loader in this link:-
http://www.test-net.com/load.jpg
is a 40 tonne forging clamped between two 40 tonne chromium-steel castings (approximately).
So yes, it can be cast :-)
regards Mark Rand RTFM
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Mark Rand wrote:

I don't know if anyone can help but I've recently been getting some odd behaviour from Internet Explorer when I click on links such as this in Outlook Express. Some work fine and others just give me an invalid syntax error but work fine if I then paste the link into IE's address bar.
The above link is one which doesn't work for me just by clicking on it. I'm damned if I can A) find the difference between links that work and ones that don't or B) what setting I might have tinkered with that is causing this.
Any ideas?
--
Dave Baker



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Peter Fairbrother wrote:

I've got a Chester 1-13mm MT3 one on my lathe. They do a 16mm version that looks the same. Its nicely made and and it doesn't slip. Once or twice after using a big drill (1" with 1/2" shank) its been difficult to release afterwards - but that's because it tightened itself in order not to slip.
--
Regards, Gary Wooding
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