Keyless chucks

I've never had any problem with me Dewalt 3/8 18v drill or my Milwaukee 1/2 magnum holeshooter, both with keyless chucks. What brand of drill do you have?

I'll take a keyless chuck anyday except for a hammerdrill perhaps.

Tony

Don Stauffer in Minnesota wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@d30g2000prg.googlegroups.com:

Nope, not by a long shot. Usually there is a screw inside the chuck that will release it. Open the jaws all the way and look down inside the chuck. Your manual may give you a clue as to what mount the chuck has so you can get a replacement KEYED chuck.

We got a RIGID 24V a while back, came with "carbide" jaws, but that's some of the softest damn carbide I've ever seen. Chuck lasted about 4 months of all day/every day use before it was just worn slap-assed out. The 'carbide' jaws are worn round and don't grip very well at all now. Also, the plastic body of the drill is seriously cracked/deteriorated, going to have to order new body pieces. This is not acceptable for a $300 drill.

We have a couple of old crapsman 12.9V (iirc) drills that have held up to

4 years of constant use. The chucks were long ago replaced with keyed versions and we've been through a couple sets of batteries, but the damn things just keep running.

There is a huge pecking order in the quality of keyless chucks used on small drills, but especially on battery drills.

I complained with a DeWalt purchase. The answer: For an extra $45 we'll give you a real chuck!! I do have to tell that it is a great chuck and has been used hard for over 3 years. We go through about 30 units a year and have learned not to buy the cheapies. Milwaukee also has an excellent keyless. You certainly can change out your keyless for a keyed chuck. $20 buckish at Ace.

I have a few electric with keyed chucks. It sure is easy to forget how big a hassle it is to use keys.

Open the chuck jaws. There will be a screw at the bottom of hole. It is a LEFT-HAND screw so you turn it clockwise to release it. You may need vice-grips or a vice to hold the chuck while doing this, if the low gear won't resist enough torque. Remove and save the screw.

Get a 1/4"+ allen key and tighten it in the chuck (the short leg goes in the chuck). Place the drill on the edge of a bench with the key hanging out over the side. You're going to put the drill into LOW gear, and wack the allen key with a soft-face hammer to unscrew it (chuck thread is right-hand, turn counter-clockwise to release). Don't be afraid to give it a really good strike as these things can get very stuck.

Installation is the reverse of disassembly (in the great words of those bloody Haynes manuals).

If you want a really excellent keyed chuck, get a Jacobs 33BA 1/2 if (1/2" capacity with a 1/2-20 hread) or a 41BA 3/8 (3/8" capacity with

3/8-24 thread). They aren't really cheap, but they are fantastic. Mine will hold a 1/2" spiral point tap, going through cast iron and mild steel.

Mind you, Jacobs makes some nice ratcheting keyless chucks. Don't spend less than $20 if you want a good one. You have to pay for a quality chuck. I'd stay away from Rohm. I don't really care for their products (compared to Jacobs), although their chucks are typically smaller for a similar capacity (part of the problem, IMO). By the way, Makita frequently sells Jacobs chuck products as parts for their machines cheaper than you can get the same chuck sold as a Jacobs.

Good luck.

Regards,

Robin

The drill and chuck should be covered under the Home Depot/Ridgid lifetime warranty, shouldn't it?

I have seen to many times people chuck in a drill like an old electric drill - with gripping the chuck and turning on the drill.

This screws up the keyless chucks. Read the manual - it states never do it.

Maybe this is what is killing your chucks. Twist with the hand power only.

Mart> I've had it with keyless chucks. I've had a couple now, and they seem

Wally wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

My understanding is that the warranty is only valid for non-commercial use, and reverts back to the 1 year mfg's warranty in commercial applications. I will check this out though. Our use would definately be deemed commercial. (Industrial plant/machine building.)

I screwed up my first one. Now with my better one I do it correctly.

Mart> >> I have seen to many times people chuck in a drill like an

Might be as simple as lip angle. A 135 might be easier.

Mart> >