Build Review DML 1/35 88mm FLAK 36 (part 1)

Hi.
I am building the DML 88mm gun, and though there are no major worries, there are some interesting facets about the build.
First off, I built the gun, and then realized that there was nothing to put it on, so I stopped and went to step 10 and built the turntable and then the cradle. (steps 5 - 9) The parts are made from very smooth, dense, yet easily sandable plastic. Excellent material to work with, 350 grit sandpaper worked for most sprue gate, and cast line removal.
Generally, one should do the small boxed in steps before major assemblies. Also fit twice glue once...
Gun assembly Steps 1 - 4
I started with the gun itself. You have to make the decision right away which barrel you will want to use. I chose the Type 18 tube, and followed the directions for this model. No problem here for the most part. Be careful to make sure that your alignment and fit of the breech block pieces and the barrel are true. Also test fit part B48 to make sure you have the proper fit. You will when the bolt pad at the end fits on the matching barrel pad exactly. Mine was 1mm off. Nest step to be careful of is in step 2, gluing parts B50, and B49 together. There is a twin rivet pattern running the length of the underside, if careful, you can preserve it, and only have the faintest of seams, which primer should cover. Be careful here, and it can work. In Step 3, pay attention to alignment again, some sanding will be required to get the gun tube assy. to sit flat and true. Decide in your loading tray option, and go from there for step 4. No problems.
For the turntable, and trail assembly. Steps 10 - 17
First off decide whether you want the traveling position, or the gun deployed position, Pay attention to the boxes with the different parts needed for each one
Start off with fore and aft trails, (parts A3,A4 and A1,A2) Here overall alignment is crucial for the complete turntable assembly to sit square. So.. Glue the trails together, The fit is almost perfect, but pay attention anyway. While you are doing this however.... Attach the end pieces (parts E12) BEFORE you glue the parts together. There is a locking tab that fits inside the trails. I didnt do this and had to remove the tab. (do this for all trails) I left off the base pad (parts E7) for now. Same with the PE pad parts. Easier to attach when the whole assembly is completed. Attach the remaining parts, and move on to the side trails. Here you lock part D13 in between (remember the end pieces E12) as well. It only fits two ways, so no problem. But pay attention to which way things are pointed, it does make a difference when attaching the connecting rod's (parts D!!) and locking bar (parts D12, D12) later. (you cant if they are backwards) Glue A10 A11, and A17 A18 to the trails. Wait till dry, and fit D18, D19 over them, trapping the whole assembly. This lines up very well. Only a slight seam to sand on top on D18, D19 parts. All and all steps 10 - 13 (building the trails) are easy, but alignment is crucial for step 14. This is when it all comes together. If everything is right, all four trails will fit within the *box* formed by part A7, and the bottom piece A8 will snap right on. Mine didnt, the fore trail was the culprit, and I had a lot of small plastic removal from the underside to get it all to fit well. Once aligned, and fit well, I took it partway apart, glued A28 to A7 BEFORE I glued the trails to A7. VERY important unless you want to cut the tab off A28, and bend/slid it into A7 afterward... Most of the trail assy can be glued into place from the inside. Now add the hydraulic lines (parts A30 A31 A32) again, A32 BEFORE you add parts A5 A6 Otherwise cut the end part off A32 and slide it under A5 A6.
I am doing the cradle now, and will write and post pic's later
Part coming soon :)
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AM

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AM wrote:

I chose the aluminum barrel. The plastic one (s) rifling was too deep, and pronounced for my tastes. Also the plastic one's were not as perfectly round as the aluminum barrel (s) The Type 36 is a two piece affair with a plastic barrel lock. Fit is perfect.
I used 5 min epoxy throughout for greater strength than CA glue. It really matters with the recoil system.

This does play a role in weather B 48 will fit well. Also helps in the actual breech block fitting, though there is enough play here for it to fit anyway. Seams on the inside of the breech block assembly will show if not taken care of. Now's the time to cut up the flexible nail files...

The length from the breech block to the barrel pad and the length of B 48 should be the same. The use of 15 min epoxy allows time to get the fit right. The aluminum recupirator tube (part MD6) fits perfectly, and needs no epoxy, the end plastic pieces hold it with no seams. (parts B18 B43 against B19 B27)

Seam run's right between the rivet pattern, but can be sanded down without removing rivets if carefull.

If you have aligned everything from the git go, than very very little sanding will be required.

Side trails parts numbers A20 A21 A22 A23 Agin alignment is crusial. Done right almost no sanding needed on them.
Also keep track of which is which. It matters when it comes time for final assembly.

Ie; if part D13 was installed backwards you cant connect either D11 (D!!) to D 13, or parts D12 D14 (D12 D12) in the right way. (or rather they just will not look right if ya do...)

I didnt get parts A3 A4 together just exactly right, figurred no problem, bondo, and sanding, but here is where it hurt me. Had to slightly undercut this trail un the underside, and then fit and alignment were all well.

Cradle almost together, Cutting the little copper looking chains was a PITA, again, more 15 min epoxy... The whole lot needs painting and then assembly, and gun itself is done.
The wheel trucks are full kit's in themselves !
I will have Part 2 in a week or two. :)
--
AM

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