Has anyone noticed this??

Hi all - Recently I started a couple of old Monogram Curtiss biplane kits, =
I was planning on bashing some of them into similar, unmodeled experimental=
versions, like a P-20, P-22, P-23, etc. I planned on using ordinary rattle=
can paints. When I reached for the Model Master Yellow, it came out in a ve=
ry wide cone that was about 60-degrees (as oppised to the tighter, maybe 20=
-degree cone of "normal" rattlecan paints) and with about half the pressure=
of (ahain) "normal" cans. Thinking that there was something wrong with tha=
t particular can, I got out another can from my stash and found it to deliv=
er the same thing. The paint covers - eventually, but because of the wider =
spray, I wasted a lot of paint in overspray. These paints were bought at th=
e same time, about six months ago and yes, I DID shake them up throughly.
Has anyone here ever noticed this effect before or did I get the brass ring=
?
And short of decanting the paint ito a jar for my own airgun, how do I keep=
it from happening again?
Thanks,
John Braungart
Reply to
The Old Man
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from happening again?
Could there have been some buildup of dried paint in the nozzles? Sometimes that effects how the paint sprays.
Reply to
<Jessie_C>
was planning on bashing some of them into similar, unmodeled experimental versions, like a P-20, P-22, P-23, etc. I planned on using ordinary rattlecan paints. When I reached for the Model Master Yellow, it came out in a very wide cone that was about 60-degrees (as oppised to the tighter, maybe 20-degree cone of "normal" rattlecan paints) and with about half the pressure of (ahain) "normal" cans. Thinking that there was something wrong with that particular can, I got out another can from my stash and found it to deliver the same thing. The paint covers - eventually, but because of the wider spray, I wasted a lot of paint in overspray. These paints were bought at the same time, about six months ago and yes, I DID shake them up throughly.
from happening again?
Different spray head geometry.
Is the spray head detachable? If so, go to nearest paint shop and buy yourself a set of spray heads for rattlecans - with some you can adjust your spray pattern, depending if you prefer horizontal or vertical strokes.
Reply to
El Viejo Dragon
The Old Man wrote in news:31894832.672.1334603886322.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@vbxy18:
The sprayer nozzle is clogged. I leave them in paint thinner for a bit. You can get a pipe cleaner in from the bottom and a needle or pin from the side.
Make sure you turn them over and spray until nothing comes out before you put them away. You can also pirate nozzles from other cans, that work, obviously.
Happens fairly regularly. More often with Testors than Tamiya.
Reply to
ftauss
it from happening again?
I thought so with the first can, but it stayed the same after changing the nozzle with another clean one. The second can was fresh. Could it have been a bad batch?
Reply to
The Old Man
I went to Michael's yesterday to get some carving tools and found that Kryl= on now makes a modeling paint in the same size can as Testors and Tamiya (a= nd half the price). Their yellow appears to be about the same shade as the = Model Master, so I plan on testing it out over the next couple of days to s= ee if that can applies any better. Until now, I've only used Krylon clear as an overcoat, and their red on my = homemade metal barbeque grill table. The red covered nicely.
Thanks for your response, John Braungart
Reply to
The Old Man
ylon now makes a modeling paint in the same size can as Testors and Tamiya = (and half the price). Their yellow appears to be about the same shade as th= e Model Master, so I plan on testing it out over the next couple of days to= see if that can applies any better.
y homemade metal barbeque grill table. The red covered nicely.
Interesting. However, what looks great covering 1:1 size household items make look lumpy and bumpy on 1:48 or 1:87 scale items - how smooth was the Krylon Red on your Grill, and how thick was it (to prevent obscuring small scale detail - NOT a consideration on a full- size backyard grill, I know).
Reply to
Sir Ray
Krylon now makes a modeling paint in the same size can as Testors and Tamiy= a (and half the price). Their yellow appears to be about the same shade as = the Model Master, so I plan on testing it out over the next couple of days = to see if that can applies any better.
my homemade metal barbeque grill table. The red covered nicely.
I don't know yet. The Krylon red covered in two coats and still gave a nice= finish without being too thick. I have a couple of scrap kits that I'll us= e as test subjects this weekend and get back to you.
Regards, John Braungart
Reply to
The Old Man
I've been using Krylon white gloss for some time and can say good things about my results. I recommend that you dust on the first coat. I find with silver plastic models that it may take three coats (counting the dusted one) for complete coverage. I've not had any yellowing after 12 years and it doesn't obscure details. Mostly I use this for airline models so there's no flat overcoat which would be Krylon also were it used.
Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.
Reply to
Mad Modeller
Do you use an air brush or straight from the can?
T2
Reply to
Tom
I use it straight from the rattle can. I once owned an airbrush but I lent it to someone and they flew away with it.
Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.
Reply to
Mad Modeller
i really hate hearing flap, flap, flap whem someone robs me. the i can never find the 12 guge......
Reply to
someone
=20
That's a pet peeve of mine; lending someone an item and then either never s= eeing it again or having to ask umpteen times over the period of a year or = more before you get it back, usually damaged and useless.
Last time I loaned a modeling related item, it was a Squadron "in action" t= itle, but I don't recall which one. I asked several times over the course o= f a year at club meetings if we were both there. Never saw it again. I do r= emember that same person asking to borrow something else, a rather minor it= em, and I said sure, right after I get that Squdron book back.
I PCSd before I saw the person again, I don't miss the book and I learned a= valuable lesson.
Reply to
RobG
seeing it again or having to ask umpteen times over the period of a year or more before you get it back, usually damaged and useless.
title, but I don't recall which one. I asked several times over the course of a year at club meetings if we were both there. Never saw it again. I do remember that same person asking to borrow something else, a rather minor item, and I said sure, right after I get that Squdron book back.
valuable lesson.
...owning a Harley has taught me more way to say "NO" to lending things than I can count...
Reply to
Rufus
Would be hard to do without one any more. Even a cheapy from Harbor Freight would do lots for my work. The wife bought me a Pasche over 30 years ago and I would never be without one again. You can collect paint from a rattle can with a soda straw and a clean paint jar. Works great...
T2
Reply to
Tom
"Tom" wrote in news:jmvjqf$fmd$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
I have a collection of Badgers. I prefer to paint almost anything that is not a "detail" with one of them as opposed to a brush.
Reply to
ftauss
Certainly a quicker and smoother job... I use lots of masking tape. Stick the parts on it, spray them... let dry and do the other side...
T2
Reply to
Tom
Bump, because this thread got derailed into Airbrush usage (as most threads concerning Rattle-cans seem to do), and I'd like to find out the results of the Krylon paint testing (if they ever occured). Results with Rustoleum and Valspar have been somewhat less than encouraging, and Testors/Model Master can be hit or miss. Cheap, smooth good-looking rattle can paint would be great for simple jobs, as cleaning an airbrush correctly can be a PITA.
Reply to
Sir Ray
Sir Ray wrote in news:5b4b10b4-d15c-4ef8-9fe3- snipped-for-privacy@c28g2000vbu.googlegroups.com:
I found that the trick with Model Master is, dunk the can in HOT water and shake it really good. Keep the nozzles clean, I throw them in a jar of thinner afterward. Move quickly but smoothly. Thin coats. Practice on something else to get a feel for how THAT can will do.
Reply to
ftauss
Hi all - Sorry to be so late with this, it's been a crappy week, what with = a broken sanitary drain and a crashed internet, but I'm finally back on lin= e - I hope! 8^P About the Krylon Brite Yellow spray in the rattlecan; I painted the wings = of a scrap Boeing P-26 using the can and, asied from being just a little bi= t lighter than the color from my Profiles plate, I have to say that the qua= lity is great. The detail (Revell rivets) came shining through with no loss= and the color covered with one coat over a flat white primer (the kit was = molded in dark O.D. green). Also the spray cone was as good as the old-time= Testors and Pactra used to be, about a 30-degree cone with decent pressure= . The rattlecan is the same size as the Model Master sprays, but $2.65 to the= ir $4.75 per can. I also tried spraying a coat onto a scrap blank decal she= et to make my own cheat lines and formation lines. I did this in Guards Red= and dark Blue Angels Blue before with Model master and the Krylon worked o= ut just as well as the others. Looks like I found a keeper!
Regards, John Braungart
Reply to
The Old Man

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