Re: Decal making questions

I use Paint Shop Pro for most decals, especially ones that involve scanning. It allows both vector or raster, but I always use it in raster mode for decals.

I also use Auto Sketch, a CAD program that allows easier duplication into arrays. I use this sometimes for making original decals when I need a rotation array or rectangular array of small features. The circular array is handy for instrument decals. Most any cheap CAD program should allow circular array duplication.

PSP has good resiz>

I use Corel Draw 7 and 10 at home. I use Photoshop 7 at work - but I like my Corel Draw better. As well as the vectoring already mentioned, it's colour control is good - particularly when switching from RGB (monitor) colour to CYMK (printing) colour.

Chek

Plus it does all that nifty Pantone and other professionl level printing color stuff.

Just slightly off-topic, but since we're talking decal making... can you please confirm that if a laser printer is used, it isn't necessary to spray a protective coat over the completed decal ie the decal is already water-resistant? I have just created and applied some decals using an ink-jet printer... sort of worked ok, but some decals ran like hell. Fortunately, I made 4 copies of what I really needed! Thanks, Ian

BTW, I use Photoshop

It's not strictly necessary to put on a protective coat, but the images while waterproof, are very fragile, so it helps if you do.

Chek

That only gets worse when you print it too.

Ron wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@rcn.com:

Ordered a copy of Corel Draw 9 Graphics Suite for about $32 delivered. Can't wait to try it.

Don't forget to check out the yahoo groups for ALPS printers, ALPS decals and Corel.

Ron wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@rcn.com:

I use the GIMP exclusively, but then again, most of my decals are ripped from scans and other materials. I hardly ever do original art. For printing, I use IrfanView, which can scale and position small pieces on the page - that way, I can print out a dozen version on one piece of white paper, cut them out, figure out which one fits the model for scale and positioning, then print that one on the decal sheet.

Has anyone used Future as a covering layer? I was wondering if it was water-soluable, which might explain my problems a few days ago with running decals... :(

I wouldn't put a water-based coating (like Future) near decal paper. Use thin mist coats of a clear enamel instead. After that has dried, I'd apply the decal and a sealing coat which could be Future/Klear.

Chek

If you mean "can Future be dissolved by water after it's dry", the answer is no; after it's dry, it is not soluble in plain water.

If you mean "Can it dissolve inkjet inks", the answer is yes, and it has nothing to do with it being water-soluble or water-based. Inkjet inks can be dissolved by acrylics, enamels, and lacquers. When clearcoating inkjet decals, you have to apply the first few coats _very_ lightly, spraying on such light coats that it dries almost instantly. The faster it dries, the less chance it'll make the ink run. After the first few coats, you can start spraying heavier, wetter coats without ruining the decal.

Thanks Chek.

How does Future affect decals done on a laser printer?

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Thanks but no, the decals ran after the Future (carefully applied) had dried and they were attached to the model. Any ideas why they would do this if Future isn't water-soluable- that's what I thought too.

Ian