No I haven't but it looks to be similar to the Testors decal making
Why not just buy some blank inkjet decal paper from Bare Metal Foil or
from Micormark, some clear spray and just go at it? That'll probably
be cheaper in the end. Those types of kits usually include some
crappy graphic editor that you don't need anyway. Most computers
alredy have utilities you can use to design the artwork. Or if you
want to get technical pick up an older version of Corel Draw or Adobe
Illustrator. They'll have more graphic power than you'll ever need for
ALPS MD series printers are the only ones I know of that will print
white, and the line has been discontinued in the US, though I've heard
that they are now produced under the Okidata brand overseas. At least
they were, once.
You can also find ALPS printers on E-Bay.
I have used white decal paper in the past but the sort I got was for laser
printers/copiers not ink jet printers.
I was making faceplate decals for an electronic device I invented so a white
background with black graphics/lettering was ideal for me. For coloured decals I
could have taken the sheets to a local print house and had colour photocopies
made using the decal sheets instead of regular paper.
Once the decals were applied I sprayed them with a high gloss clear Krylon
product to protect them.
in article email@example.com, willshak at
firstname.lastname@example.org wrote on 2/21/08 5:07 PM:
And that is the big hang-up. It's nearly impossible to cut all extraneous
white away in anything but a very simple shape. The white is not just
necessary for white areas of the graphic. Since the inkjet printer inks are
somewhat transparent, almost any printed color will change when the decal is
applied to a painted surface, and lighter colors will simply disappear.
Hmmm..... this is getting complicated, but.... a double layer, the
bottom solid white, and the top multicolored on transparent? i only
think of it, because i've seen in articles where folks have done
similar with kit decals that were too transparent, so apparently the
thickness isn't completely a problem. I can't imagine trying to get
them to register, though.
All depends on the color you're applying them on top of. F-1
Specialties sells "extra-white" decal film, or white under-decals for
F-1 kits because a lot of the time the white in kit decals isn't opaque
enough. That may work fine for cars, but for aircraft I'd think the
thickness would still show white beneath the color and you'd need to
wash the edges or something.
I seem to recall instances of decals where a white underlay stops short
of the edge, and then the color is carried out to the edge of the clear
carrier film. Took me a few years to realize just why you don't want to
trim that clear carrier off - Aeromaster has decal printing down to a
fine art in this respect, IMO. Theirs are the absolute best in the biz.
Yellow presents a similar problem, and I've also heard the the color
that really tasks a printer is orange - most printers print orange as a
matrix of yellow and red, or yellow and "orange-ish". The dot pitch of
the printer comes into play in just "how orange" the final matrix of
color appears, and any "newsprint" appearance.
Very simply, I want to make some replacement decals for keys on my
wife's laptop keyboard, where I had to get keys from another laptop
and they have the wrong symbols/words on them. In Japan one cannot
find such decals, and the ones I have found online cover the whole
key, which is not something I want. Also, the style of the letters is
not what I want.
Decals will wear off in a short time. I know that is how many keytops
are labelled now (instead of two-shot moulding), nevertheless it might
be a good idea to make several sets, particularly of the heavily used
keys (etaoin shrdlu in descending order for English). The decals had
worn off most of the keys on my old IBM T23 laptop in a couple of years,
and that was being used with an external keyboard half the time.
I suspect the decals used by keyboard manufacturers are heavier-duty
than modelling decals: don't know how well Alps decals will stand up.
Obviously you will protect them with a varnish overcoat?
As an alternative, for your purposes, Letraset still do their dry
transfer lettering in many fonts and colours, including white.
A more permanent option would be to use a transfer as a template to cut
the letters from thin plastic sheet, which could then be stuck down to
the keytop. I'm not sure I'd want to go that far, but it would be very
You could make the decals more durable by printing them as a mirror
image, applying a thin clear coat, and gluing them to the keys
face-down. The decal film will be on top of the ink, so it'll act as a
Hmm.... that reminds me of how i used to label my homebrew electronics
in the old days..... lay scotch tape on the roller of a typewriter
(remember those?), type the label onto the tape; remove the tape and
stick it onto the front panel, then lay another piece of magic tape
over top of it.
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