Layout portability?

It's been several decades since I built a model train layout, so I'm not up to speed on the latest building materials. The topography of my last layout was made with the tried and true method of applying plaster over a foundation of metal screening, cardboard and newspaper. Now I want to build an N-scale layout (4' x 8') which I can occasionally move and possibly store on edge to save room. I don't think plaster would be a good choice in this case. Would layers of sculpted foam board be the best way to build the topography for such a layout?

Thanks

Reply to
D&Hfan
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Short answer:

Yes

... but do NOT use the white beaded foam. Use the pink or blue extruded insulation foam and glue it with low-temp hot glue or water-based acrylic adhesives. If you use 2" foam, you would probably be able to do away with the plywood completely (depending on how deep you cut into it for terrain and how much you put on it) 4" would certainly be enough to eliminate the wood. Some have used 1" foam to build box beams as a structural base for modular construction (but not N Trak modules - it's strong enough, but we're too rough on them!)

Reply to
Joe Ellis

D> It's been several decades since I built a model train layout, so I'm not D> up to speed on the latest building materials. The topography of my last D> layout was made with the tried and true method of applying plaster over D> a foundation of metal screening, cardboard and newspaper. D> Now I want to build an N-scale layout (4' x 8') which I can occasionally D> move and possibly store on edge to save room. I don't think plaster D> would be a good choice in this case. Would layers of sculpted foam board D> be the best way to build the topography for such a layout?

Hydrocal over carved/sculpted foam insulation works well. Hydrocal is fairly strong and the foam insulation will 'support' it well enough for moving and storing, so long as you are careful (no drop kicking!).

D> D> Thanks D> D> D>

Reply to
Robert Heller

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