Opinions on Trix HO Steam ...

I had a Trix Big Boy that ran excellent and had a high level of detail (I sold it). I also have a Heritage 2-8-8-2 that runs excellent, with a better level of applied details, but the one thing I can't get past is the fact that LL uses a plastic shell that is molded in the appropriate colors, but is not actually painted. For the kind of money LL wants, I think that's a crime.

Seems there was a report on the 2-8-2 in MRR mag some time back. They seemed a bit dissapointed in that the sound was not up to snuff for such an EXPENSIVE locomotive..............Athearn genisis........HA! I won't be buying any more of those. The hand rails never did go on right on mine..........they should have sold it as a bloody kit for all you had to do to it to get to run and track right. P2K, I love their stuff runs and looks great! You brass importers had your chance and BLEW IT! Brass priced itself right off the market, but I don't want to open THAT can of worms again.

John

"Mark Drury" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com...

John.. Brass did not price itself out of the market..................it is an entirely different market!! The exception being Sunset "Prestige" and other "affordable" brass models they are producing in both 'HO' and 'O'. On the Trix models.....I found that the Big Boy (I have the first run) is a fine value and runs extremely well...almost to perfection. I sent my NYC H-6b 2-8-2 back as it was nowhere near the quality of the Big Boy...although the sound I found to be excellent as well as running qualities. If I did not get it at cost, I never would have fooled with it as a Key NYC or USRA 2-8-2 can be had for much less and even if you had to paint it and install state of the art electronics.....you'd be way ahead of the game...and with a fine brass model to boot!! The one major fault with the Trix 2-8-2 is quite major and all of the reviewers missed it except MR...and that was watered down (full page adds have much influence). The wheel contacts are at the bottom of tender wheels and make contact with frogs, crossings and switch points..causing immediate shorts. This is fixable, but why for such an expensive model??? Howard Zane

Yes Howard it DID price itself out of the market, when people can't afford something then it has priced itself out of the market in my book. I had brass once many years ago but it got increasingly expensive and I COULDN'T AFFORD IT ANYMORE. We don't all run brass shops like you do....... I never had a brass locomotive I didn't have to screw with for some to get it to run right. THAT is unacceptable for the prices demanded.

John...... Quite correct about tweaking....what I meant is that is just about all new and finer older brass is going to the collector. These brass locos are really limited works of fine art that may run on a model railroad......but the chances of today's expensive brass models doing so...doubtful at best!!!! It is not fair and incorrect to compare a limited production handmade item from metal to a mass produced (made from molds) model from China made of plastic.....or in some cases...cast metal. HZ .

Joining in late. I have a first run of the Trix BigBoy. T'is fantastic!! Excellent low speed operation. Near-perfect prototype top speed. Beautiful detail and just good all-around detailing. Another fine product from Marklin. I recently added a LokSound2 sound\dcc decoder preloaded with good Big Boy sounds (whistle, chuff, shoveling coal, steam, brakes, bell, and more!!!)that makes it even better! Back EMF and wheel sycnhronized chuff'ing make it absolute pleasure to operate. And it can pull the bumper off a Chevy to boot. Only drawback is that it needs BIG curves, but that's obvious. Many layouts will not support a BigBoy, but that's another story. Soon I am going to add a middle-rail slider and replace the wheels with the Marklin wheelset and put it on my developing 3-rail DCC layout. (This in lieu of buying a second one directly from Marklin.)

Steve

Good morning Steve,

You mentioned the magic "Marklin" word

My wife and are getting ready to set up an old 3 rail set we inherited and I'm leaning towards a wall mounted rail system. The set was brought over from Germany by her parents in the 50's and is the old 3 rail type track.

At a "garage/yard" sale 9 months ago, I spotted a tall box full of HO train stuff with a $20.00 sign on it. After removing some of the American stuff off the top, about half way down, I noticed these funny couplers, which I recognized. I hurt myself reaching for my wallet.

An engine and a couple of cars would have been worth the price. The best way to describe what I found in the bottom of the box is, "multiply by 100", including a bunch of the newer type "T" track, 3 way switches and the list would take up a page including 6 engines.

Now that I am retired, we have time to play and I would like to know what sources you have for materials and parts.

Was going to send an e-mail but I thought others might also have information on wall/ceiling RR.

Merry Christmas to all Dave & Hamilton

Wow. What a great find. I am fairly new into the Marklin world so I only have a starter set and a couple of add-on kits in a standard layout. I am in the (slow) process of changing over from conventional 2-rail DC to 3-rail DCC. I love Marklin trains but I think their Marklin Digital\Delta protocol is severely limited. They are a very proprietary company and that doesn't fly well against today's open standards like DCC. So 3-rail Marklin plus DCC for me. I love 3-rail. No reverse loop problems to even waste a brain cell on. And C-Track is the best if you want to put together fast or your layout is temporary.

But back to your question. Since I am new in this area my purchases have been somewhat limited, but:

1) I bought my Trix (soon to be marklinized) BigBoy from an ebay store Usually good prices, limited selection 2) Starter set I bought from Great people, with a personal touch. Would definately do business again. Have found lower prices on some things at other places though their specials are usually very good. 3)Decoders, programmer, etc. I bought from This fellow (Raman) is fantastic. Very nice, very knowledgeable, good prices and a great communicator. He gave me a good deal on the decoders and programmer. He sent me loads of information when I started my DIY control station project even though he knew I was also considering buying an intellibox control station from him. He even sent me a personally signed card at the holidays last year!!! I will definately be going back to him for more when I get my layout planned a bit more.

A note on LokSound2 decoders. The reason that I chose these decoders was because:

1) They can do Motorola\DCC and analog DC. They can even do the sound output of the chuff, brakes, coal shoveling, etc in analog DC mode. 2) They have integrated sound that can be edited and modified which is very cool. 3) They have a good reputation among european railroaders. 4) They had a unit that is already preprogrammed with sounds for the BigBoy. Very good sounds I think. I bought two. Took the second one, modified the whistle to be a bit higher and throatier and put it in a Bowser Challenger so I could have distinguishable whistles. 5) Fun factor. Modifying sounds can be great fun. One late night when I was too giddy to be of much good, I recorded my wife's snore. I replaced the chuff sound in the decoder with her snore and sent the BigBoy around a small test track snoring with every wheel turn. Ridiculous? Yes, but I laughed so hard I almost had a hernia and it woke her. She was only mildly amused. 6) Ease of use. It only took me 5 minutes to get the decoder chuffs and brakes synchronized to wheels. There is an option to use an external reed sensor for syncing but it was really unnecessary. Internal sensng was good enough. Good instructions and a good interface made it easy as pie.

No. I don't work for ESU, but I think highly of their products. Only 25 more years until my retirement and then I might get this conversion done. (I am also working on a DCC control station of my own design. That takes some of my time too!) Good day.

Steve

Maerklin track falls into three main categories:

- "M-track", the tinplate ballast stuff in five sub categories: - prewar 3 rail with less printed sleepers. (early postwar also) - postwar 3 rail with scale printed sleepers and blackened brass rail. - postwar 3 rail with scale printed sleepers and rolled steel rail. - "Scale model" track with stud contact, plastic sleepers, tinplate ballast and a different geometry. - 1956-2000 stud contact tinplate track. All five are compatible with the exception of the "Scale model" geometry.

- "K-Track" plastic sleepered stud contact track which looks like ordinary 2 rail.

- "Alpha" plastic ballasted stud contact track from the mid 1880s - incompatible.

- "C-Track". the M-track replacement. It has a plastic ballast base and looks just like "Alpha" track but has different connectors and code 90 rail.

- "T-Track" Maerklin's new (2004/5) track system for two rail (Trix) which uses the "C-track" base without the stud contacts.

Regards, Greg.P.

Maybe this is dumb qestion, but what is a "wallmounted system"? would it be for only display, i.e.. non operating?

I recently decided to display (only) my 1939-50 set of Lionels. Any hints, expecially for lighting would be appreciated.

Maybe this is dumb qestion, but what is a "wallmounted system"? would it be for only display, i.e.. non operating?

I recently decided to display (only) my 1939-50 set of Lionels. Any hints, expecially for lighting would be appreciated.

Rather than head to your local frame and art supply store with a wheelbarrow full of money, see if you can turn up an article (in MR I think) in the last year or two on valence lighting - Siskiyou Lines might be the keyword to use - and look at buying or constructing display shelves that will allow that.

I have seen several over the years that were ceiling and ceiling/wall combinations but didn't get much in the way of detail, wasn't an interest then. Many were at Pizza parlors (an interest) and most in G scale. I remember one that was Lionel which was a combination ceiling/wall which included an assortment of static displays and an operational continuous running system which passed through a couple of the static displays.(in the

70's and I believe it was in the Berkley, CA area) Lighting was strictly ambient but with the now available "rope lights", a person could get really creative.

A simple G scale ceiling set I see on a regular basis is in South Sacramento's Kaiser's Cardiac/Pediatric hallway. (What a combination, one causes the other!)

Any way, I am now interested, I have a bunch of Marklin 3 rail (DC) and a box full of N scale "stuff" I inherited from my brother-in-law. And you'll love this, My wife likes it also!!! It's her Marklin!

I have an electrical background and I"m going to play with 3 rail flex track and bridge rectifiers in the pick-up circuits.

Check out the rope lights for your displays.

Merry Christmas Dave & Hamilton

May I borrow your wife on temporary basis!? My wife gew up next to a set of mains in the K.C. area and as a result she does not share my passion for trains, although she does indulge my son's Thomas the Tank fascination.

Please report back on how the 3-rail flex works out. I have been thinking of that for my permanent 3-rail layout, but I don't knwo much about it having only been into Marklin for a bit over a year here.

Steve

All you wnat to know about lighting the Siskiyou Lines, and a lot more good stuff:

Bing on - it was on his web site that I saw that. Thanks.

I must explain that 3 rail flex track doesn't exist but I have an idea on how to create it so it looks good and easy to create. Must go play!

Dave

Dave, there is 3-rail flex track. Marklin 2205 Flex K-Track. Look at

Haven't used or touched it, but I know it exists. Might save you some trouble. Steve

That's not 3-rail. It's stud contact. Trix 3-rail engines had small pickups not the Marklin "ski" and need proper 3-rail track.