Q-Walthers decals ?

I'm finishing a Walther's feed-grain elevator and when I applied the decals, they silvered a little, even after using Solvaset. I had let the decals dry since Monday night and I am a little apprehensive about applying Solvaset again before I Dullcoat. Would that harm the decals since they seem to be fairly thin? I've done that with Herald King and Micro-Scale but these seemed extremely fragil when I applied them. Thx, Ron.

Reply to
Ackermann
Loading thread data ...

| night and I am a little apprehensive about applying Solvaset again before I | Dullcoat. Would that harm the decals since they seem to be fairly thin? I've | done that with Herald King and Micro-Scale but these seemed extremely | fragil when I applied them.

Silvering is usually caused by not having a gloss undercoat. And by not using a wetting agent such as Microset.

Dilute some of the Solvaset about a third with water and put on another coat. You should be ok to do several coats. What will happen is that pits will start to appear when you've done too much. The silvering will probably not go away, but it will be reduced enough that some weathering and the flat coat will make it less noticeable. So far as I know, the decals in current Walthers kits are made by Microscale.

CTucker NY

Reply to
Christian

Thanks Christian, I wanted "barn red" on the elevator so I got cheap and used red primer from Walmart ($.99 I believe) and Glosscoated it before I decaled but should have remembered that Testors Glosscoat is just a name, not very glossy. If I were doing rolling stock, I would've applied Future on top of the Glosscoat and let that dry for several days before decaling. But I got in hurry and that is never a good idea.

I was going to gently pin-prick the silvered areas and then re-wet with water followed by a light application of solvaset which I had done before on model aircraft and on rolling stock. Sounds like we are on the same page M/L. I just thought these decals seemed thinner than what I had seen in the past, therefore more fragil. One screw-up is enough.

Thanks, Ron.

Reply to
Ackermann

Once you have got the decals applied to something, they are really quite sturdy and massive amounts of Solvaset or other such stuff can be put on the decals to get them to fully adhere to the substrate. When you really get them wetted, you have to not touch them with anything until they have dried again. The "silvering" is air trapped underneath the decal and the only thing is to let the air out and flow some more decal softening solution over the decal.

-- Why do penguins walk so far to get to their nesting grounds?

Reply to
Bob May

Lightly score the decals with a sharp knife and reapply Solvaset. The scoring will allow the Solvaset to penetrate under the decals and help them settle into the flat paint. Score along obvious lines such as edges of siding, etc.

HTH

Reply to
Wolf Kirchmeir

Thanks, I did that with a couple of spots that were under the siding and it worked. Spots in the center of the siding I pin-pricked. I got rid of almost all of the silvering. I will weather what little is left (or not. . . it's not too bad as it is).

Ron.

Reply to
Ackermann

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.