Beginning small HO (133" x 136") L-shaped point to point switching layout in my computer room. I'll really only have one 90 degree curve. Planning on using 24" CLR minimum.
I have a question.
What is a safe track center to center dimension that also looks good for yard areas, straight sections and 24" radius curves?
thecalman
Something you can reach into, to use the 0-5-0 switcher when you have to do things by hand, and the overhang doesn't foul the adjacent tracks. Which will still be further apart than is necessary on the real thing. Seriously.
There will be an overhang between the trucks, on the inside of the curve, and another one at the ends outside the curve.
Draw it up on paper using "full-size" curves, and place the stock you are going to use on them and move them untul you are satisfied.
The longer the stock the greater the overhang. Personally I wouldn't use 80 foot cars on 2ft radius because it looks wrong to me.
Personally, I prefer an RS-3 or a GP9 or the steam equivalent with a few 40 foot cars more than a modern locomotive and less number 80 footers in the same length because it would still look like a train to me.
So the curves could actually be slightly closer together.
Go with the prototype spacing - If you go with "what's convenient" then you'll go with four wheel locos and ignore all the difficult stuff like rolling stock, scenery, turnouts and additional track beyond that in the initial trainset box!
I have my yard tracks 2" on center and if I have a derailment with cars on adjacent tracks, I'll have to move cars to get my hand in there. Of course I'll also have trolley wire and poles getting in the way...
I have my tracks on a 15-foot center widening out at double-track crossovers to allow for spacing with Atlas snap switches (#6) with an 18-degree (?) crossover. I'll be running 80-footers on a 38" radius.
Jay Modeling the North Shore & North Western C&NW/CNS&M in 1940-1955 E-mail is now open snipped-for-privacy@aol.com
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