Stainless steel track

On 5/24/2008 1:03 PM NoOne spake thus:

[snip summary of metals]

Aluminum is an OK conductor of electricity. The problem is that the oxide that forms on its surface isn't a very good conductor. If the rail is polished, either by wheels running over it or by hand before operating, this shouldn't be a problem.

You're correct in saying that the problems with aluminum house wiring were due to connection problems and interfaces with other metals (i.e., copper).

Aluminum's tendency to corrode dep[ends on which alloying elements are added to give it structural strength. Unfortunately the alloys, along with heat treatment, that give aluminum the strength for high load applications (like aircraft skins) are the most vulnerable to corrosion. Nearly pure aluminum is quite good at resisting corrosion, but quite soft. Some aircraft materials have the hard, but vulnerable, alloys for strength with a thin coating of the commercially pure variety to hold the corrosion at bay.

The problematic aluminum electrical wiring's diameter expands when resistance at the connections warms it. The expansion makes the wire extrude out of the connections, increasing the electrical resistance and the tendency for the connection to produce heat. The problem occurs when equipment like wall outlets and wall switches designed for copper wire can't automatically adjust for the changes in the wire's shape. It's IMPORTANT to use fixtures designed and marketed to work with aluminum wire if the circuit uses aluminum wire.

Go for it!!!

The only problems I foresee, Cats & small dogs vs/overhead wire. Large dogs, unless they are in 'play mode' will be aware enough to step over such obstructions.

Aluminum is an excellent conductor. The 'house' problems were caused by overheated connections, caused by loose connections, caused by 'thermal cycling' (over time) causing screw connections to loosen. {The fact that 'aluminum oxide' is an insulator also didn't help the 'loose connection' problem.)

Chuck D.

"NoOne" wrote in news:Yw_Zj.363$ snipped-for-privacy@nlpi061.nbdc.sbc.com:

My experiences with Al show that it doesn't take standard rosin-core electrical solder worth anything. You can get around this by using special solders or physical connections, but this may be something you want to consider.

Puckdropper

It'll do. I installed Romec (AL wire, intended for outside use) in a room I built on an immobile home a long time ago. Building supply stores sell it.

HOWEVER....

No. Won't "bite", and my wife (BS, engineer, materials science) agrees.

Yup.

mark

That is correct: Al is difficult to solder. It requires different techniques and flux/solder (not something that an average model railroader has in their shop.)

Also as it has been mentioned, Al very quickly forms a thin layer of Al oxide when exposed to air. That oxide is non-conductive. I'm not sure if locomotive wheels would be able to cut through it. Al oxide is very hard (it is used as abrasive in things such as sandpaper).

Peteski

Aluminium wire/rail won't oxidise if it's coated in plastic sheathing. (:-)

1:12th scale models will probably be heavy enough to deform the surface of aluminium rail. (very prototypical but not desirable)

Regards, Greg.P.

I have had no problems with my M=E4rklin Stainless Steel K-track and would use it again. (it is an indoors layout but it does get pretty humid at times)

here is how I attach power feeds to the track:

if you look at the top of real track that is in use, it is shiny metal. My St. St. track looks the same

Brass track looks like, um brass - very unrealistic except at sunset.

Dale

The earliest K-Track was rolled normal steel/iron. Presumably it was galvanised as it was silver as bought. It rusted quite quickly. Since then M has used various grades of "stainless", most of it will stick to a magnet to some degree which means it will (eventually) rust.