i run my mig cranked and adjust the speed to fit the puddle. i dont expect
a newbie to be able to know how to read his puddle though. its tough to
give an absolute recommendation based upon the limited criteria he gave, but
running with a setting for the thinner base metal is still my recommendation
for anyone who would ask the question to begin with. correcting a cold pass
for him will be much easier than correcting a blow through.
This would all depend on the welding skill you have, as every welder is
different. I would personally have my settings just over the half way mark
for the thicker stuff and wash the pool onto the lighter gauge material.
However this will require good control of the welding pool.
certainly. since he would ask the question the logical assumption is that
hes not a professional welder. this is why i recommend setting the machine
for the thinner material, _especially_ since he didnt specify position. i
pity any newbie attempting to run a hot vertical up pass, its gonna be a
Everyone is good at something. And no one is good at everything. I know
people who can weld fantastically one way, but not another. Let's say they
can do a 1" plate open root 6010, then fill it up with 7018 vertical up, and
pass x-ray. But they but can't figure out the on/off switch on a MIG.
Sorry, GMAW. Asking about a particular phase of welding indicates a person
looking for more information. When you get all the information, you do NOT
become a professional. You become a professional the first time you get
paid for welding. Once you know it all, all you get is a label
The first step on the journey to knowledge is the admission of ignorance.
you can split hairs on terminology if you wish, but my implication was
clear. by asking the original question its obvious that he is relatively
inexperienced with the process in question. based upon that fact alone, he
would be better off running on the cold side especially since he left out
I welded a small pantry rack today for my RV. The wire was about 1/8" in
diameter. I just turned my machine down a little from the setting I use for
.065 tubing, and it did fine. I want to fabricate some decorative items
from wire, and was wondering something ...............
I like to stitch weld things. It gives an appearance that approaches TIG.
I am going to try some pieces, but wanted to ask first to maybe save burning
up some pieces. .............
I want good solid welds that hold. I want a minimum amount of filler
because of the looks. I usually run my Lincoln 175+ at comparable settings
for the current and wirefeed. That is, I put the dials at the same clock
positions, and it is a pretty good match. Can I turn up the current a bit
to burn a little hotter, or will that cause burnback? Or do I just turn
them both up and go with short spot welds?
Anyone have any experience with this? Particularly with small diameter.
Can I run it hot if I just keep the spot time short?
I'd pick something in between, somewhat of a comprimise. If in dobt, lean
towards the hotter setting (since cold welds are easy to do with mig). With
the proper motion and puddle control you should be able to keep most of the
heat on the thick piece and move the puddle down onto the thin piece.
Lynn "I have opposable thumbs, and I'm not scared to use em" Amick
On 20 Nov 2003 17:24:06 -0800, email@example.com (John Janes)
......and in reply I say!:
RAG (Rough as Guts) engineering shop 101. Farm/hobbyist stuff.
Ok. I agree with going for something a bit high and working the
puddle. But WTF does this _mean_?
Welding is basically a power and time. Too much power and/or too much
time and you get burn through, or gouging in thick metal. Too little
time * power and you get a cold weld.
When you weld, you weave slightly. This is an acquired art and cannot
be described to get a neat, true weld. I still fail from time to
time.................well from job to job :-<.
Simply put, in order to control the puddle, you weld on the heavier
- and probably point the handpiece toward the heaviier piece more.
- this tends to accentuate the force of the plasma flow toward the
You then weave along the weld, moving each weave across to the lighter
piece in proportion to the relative thicknesses. If the lighter piece
is 1/2 as thick as the heavier piece, then stay with the heavier for
2/3 of the time and only "flick" across to the lighter piece for 1/3.
This happens fairly rapidly, not sort of 2 seconds on heavier piece
and 1 on lighter. So it is not easy.
That's my theory.
Practice with heavier stuff (around 6mm) and come downward. It's less
soul-destroying. then twist and belt the crap out of your practice
pieces, and look at where it broke. That's where you went wrong. Why?
I have read _books_ on _that_ subject <G>.
Feel free to jump in, anyone.
Another way is multiple passes.
- A NON (or very small) weave, careful weld at the root, based on the
lower thickness plus 10%....maybe.
- A second pass on the heavier piece at its rating.
- A third on the lighter piece at that rating
- a weaving pass, to hide the multi-passes, based on the heavire piece
and with a slightly slower wire feed, and with a close tip-to-work
distance, only _just_ touching the light piece side of the job.
- wear long sleeves and trousers. <G>
- seriously. I know a guy who UV'd his his whatevers by welding in
shortshorts (what we Ozs call footy shorts).
- keep work clean....grind and clean if needed
- make edges smooth
- welding an edge that has no "heatsink" from the other workpiece
will encourage burnthrough.
- on light work, make sure edges are square. This avoids even thinner
- if you can weld "hot" (higher current, slower wire) compared to
safe, charted values by using your skills, you get a "neater",
flatter, weld. It also helps penetration.
- allow for or prevent (this take real _force_!!!) weld distortion.
- When the weld is hot, and at its max expansion, it is soft, so
there is no force acting on the weldment.
- As it cools and hardens, it contracts.
- But now it's hard.
- all weldments pull into the weld.
- be ready to accept that welding is a complex, fascinating and
frustrating pastime. I have a love-hate relationship with it.
- learn to work outside that table.
- did I say practice?
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
Imagine a _world_ where Nature's lights are obscured
by man's. There would be nowhere to go.
Or wait a while. Then you won't have to imagine.
There are several places on the net that contain good information regarding
I would also recommend that you get a hold of an article written in the
September 2003 issue of 4-Wheel & Off Road called "20 Tips to Better
Welding" written by Fred Williams. Of all of the articles I have read, this
one explained the weave in a most understandable fashion. Contact
http://4wheeloffroad.com to obtain a back issue. If by chance you cannot
locate the article let me know and I will let you read mine.
Jesse L Zufall
To contact me replace one with the number 1 in the email address.
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