Mig Welding info wanted

First of all, I've been reading this group to detirmine what I want in a MIG welder, and have narrowed it down to a Miller or Lincoln, in the

200-210 amp range. Alot of you had good advice and reccomendations - thanks.

But, my question is this. I almost hate to ask it because a) most of you will probably say take welding calsses and b) it's kinda difficult to explain and for people to visualize

I have a SUV (2004 KIA Sorento) I am going to add a winch. The frame rails in the front are kinda low and are flush with the body. The metal thickness is 1/8 inch, and the box measures about 2.5x4.5 inches. This link shows a pic of the front end. The bar going across is where the frame rails are. I want the winch to be mounted above this:

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What I wanted to do would be to weld a 3/16 inch thich 2x4 onto the top of the frame rail, extending back some distance to create more surface area for the weld of this section and the frame rails. It would then extend out past the frame rails about 8-9 inches, and a winch mount Plate (pre-fab'ed) would be mounted on these 2 new frame sections.

These are my questions then;

- Anybody know if you can weld on modern frame rails? I know 'hardened' steel you're not suppose to weld on. I know people weld on Jeeps all of the time, but the frames on Jeeps are 3/16 inch thick.

- Would there be aproblem welding thicker material to thinner material?

- Would it be strong enough just welding the new section to the top of the frame rail? Or would it better to weld it on, then add a plate on each side of the frame to help spread the load? (remember, a winch can place a termendous load on the frame)

Or, would your advice be for me to shell out the bucks to have it done 'professionaly'? I'm buying a welder and re-learning to weld because I have so much work I need done on my vehicle, and nobody makes anything for it, and it is very expensive to have things made (800 bucks just for skid plates, for example)

I could probably post a diagram and make a link if that would help

Reply to
KH
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Either the Miller 210 or Lincoln 215 would make you quite happy, both are around $1250 on ebay with no tax / free shipping, just get a gas bottle locally and you're good to go.

You could save a hundred or two by going with an HTP Mig 200

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I'll be buying their Mig 2400 soon. Google the group on HTP, you'll find nothing but good comments about HTP.

As far as putting a winch mount on that crossbar, my guess is you'll end up ripping it off the front of your vehicle. *IF* I were to attempt such a thing I would integrate the front skid plate and get as much metal to metal contact between the plate you intend to weld and attach the winch mount to, and the unibody car frame.

-Tom

Reply to
TT

Thanks for the reply. I have read many good things about HTP, and checked out thier web site. I guess my concern still is local dealer support. Not just in the way of if something goes wrong (shipping that unit back to them could cost alot), but also when you buy a 1000+ item from a local dealer, along with supplies, they are often times more free flowing with thier advice, help and tips :)

To clear up the issue on my Sorento - it sits on a fully boxed frame. It is not a uni-body, or uni-frame (like Jeep Cherokee or Liberty) The pic of the front bar going across is where the frame rails are.

TT wrote:

difficult

Reply to
KH

"KH" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com... | Thanks for the reply. I have read many good things about HTP, and | checked out thier web site. I guess my concern still is local dealer | support. Not just in the way of if something goes wrong (shipping that | unit back to them could cost alot), but also when you buy a 1000+ item | from a local dealer, along with supplies, they are often times more | free flowing with thier advice, help and tips :) | | To clear up the issue on my Sorento - it sits on a fully boxed frame. | It is not a uni-body, or uni-frame (like Jeep Cherokee or Liberty) The | pic of the front bar going across is where the frame rails are.

Fully boxed is good. Rather than welding, which is a no-no on car frames as far as I'm concerned, drill matching holes on both sides of the frame where you want a bolt. Pass a spacer (seamless tubing, not seamed) through to take the bulk of the crush forces. The spacer needs to just be a bit shorter than the frame is narrow (about 1/32" to 1/16") and if you are able to wrap the new structure around the frame, clamping to keep it from moving while having positive features to allow the loads to flow in solid locations (such as putting an anchor point in a bend or other frame feature.)

Reply to
carl mciver

I've been doing alot of research on the internet (at least as much info as I can find), and I too am starting to think that welding maybe not be a good idea on the frame. Without knowing exactly what type of steel I'm dealing with, I could really do some serious damage to the frame by welding on it improperly.

One more example of why not to buy a KIA for serious off-roading - while it is capable, everything costs too much money to do anything for it!

Reply to
KH

If you haven't already found these you might want to check out these two sites for some good off road fabrication ideas.

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Mike H.

Reply to
Mike H.

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