I'm getting started with a gas torch setup and am looking for ideas for a
"temporary" type work surface I can use when brazing or welding. I don't
have much room for a dedicated welding table. What's out there that I can
put on my wood workbench when using the torch and can remove for storage
later and where can I find it?
TIA,
Ken
How about one of the insulating pads that go under wood heaters.
Probably inquire at most any hardware store, Lowe's, etc.
This *may* be too flexible for some accurate work as it contains a tin
type top, but has an insulating pad beneath it. The insulating pad may
allow the metal covering to flex a little.
Al
===============
Ken Ehlert wrote:
For oxy-acet I prefer firebrick. Get the 4"x8" pieces about 1" thick.
3 or 4 pieces is plenty, available where ever then sell wood stoves and
accessories. If you are working on a wood bench you may want to put
down a automotive oil drip pan for a bit more protection. They sell some
24"x36" ones that are a good fit for the average bench. Work well for
disasembling small engines too.
Ken Ehlert wrote:
Been torch-welding for 30 years...
effort into a table. Rather, spend a few $ on a wide range of
vice-grips. Get a pair of those big sheet-metal type, and a few
regular sized (no rubber-grips). Collect cookie-sheets and other
pots/pans your wife disposes of. These are good for heat-shields and
also easily improvised for a work-surface when needed. Whenever you do
need a flat surface the cookie-sheet (or any flat piece of steal that
you can find) works with anything you can set it on.
My favorite surfaces have been:
1. Vice-grip to anything.
2.. a 2gal metal bucket (Maple-sap-type) with a cookie sheet on top.
(good flat surface w/ water handy) - good for small-type projects
3. a 55 gal drum (upside-down) - a couple of standart bricks on top
(never needed the fire-brick-type but would grab one if I saw it).
4. a square metal frame w/o a surface that I found curb-side (good for
vice-gripping to).
5. Jack-stands (w/ vice grips again).
6. C-clamps. Not as good as vice-grips for little stuff, but for big
stuff they might be - again project dependednt. Used the C-clamps more
for bigger project such as a few truck-racks.
7. "welder's magnets" - Maybe one or two - but again the big
vice-grips can out do them forever. Maybe you can find some metal ones
- mine melted and cuaght fire cause they had a rubber outer-coating
(guess they were for arc-welding).
Happy welding!
Elliott
"Welder's Handbook" recommends using firebricks. They say avoid regular
bricks b/c they 'may' explode when heated too far. I don't know the validity
of this statement, but I'd use firebrick just in case.
-Mike
--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Flowmaster 40 Series mufflers (self-installed woohoo)
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors
Aluminum adjustable clutch quadrant
I have a nice rolling work table with a formica-type top. The top
is 3 feet wide and 4 feet long. We do a lot of sheet rock work
(commercial 5/8 fire code rock). Whenever there is an appropriate
scrap of rock, it gets cut and stacked in the rack. Throw it on
the table top before welding/painting/etc. Change as required.
That top is as pretty as the day we appropriated it off a desk
that was being discarded.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net
I have to agree with mike firebrick is the way to go. I have a small
metal welding table that has a fire brick top. The bricks are loose so
that i can wash off the excess flux.
About bricks, rocks, concrete, asphault...
Fire-briks work even with a rosebud directed at them.
Regular bricks work as long as you don't directly aim the flame at
them, especially if they are dry (they are formed w/ heat, and it's the
moisture that can explode them).
Rocks pop/explode even w/ indirect flame.
Concrete (welding against the driveway surface) pops/explodes too.
Asphault melts/burns and stinks linke burning oil.
Note that the popping of the rock/concrete/brick is not a dangerous
explosion, but just a little painful. Kinda-like you get when new at
welding and putting the torch too close to the puddle. The pieces are
about the same size but not melted (moving a little faster maybe).
Over the driveway, definately use something to prop your work off of
the ground - a rock or brick, board, v-grip, helps - anything that adds
a little distance (you only need a few inches to avoid pop-rocks).
If you're driveway is asphault, then you'll need to kick the pieces you
cut into the grass quickly to avoid burned-spots. And depending on
where you live and the time of year, watch out for causing grass-fires
with the weeds where you kick the cut pieces.
Elliott
Matthew James Lewis wrote:
PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.