- posted
20 years ago
The Skil 77 is still one of the best on the market. Milwaukee also makes a decent worm drive. I think the Makita could take it as well.
I would skip dewalt, too much plastic. Don't know anything about Porter Cable worm drives.
We have a Jansey at work that we use for cutting bar grating and heavy expanded...also buzzes right thru 5/8 alum. with a blade designed to cut alum. Had to rework the guide on it though as it was not very accurate in relation to the blade location. It has a cavity where a majority of the chips collect but it fills up fast and is a mess to clean out. I think we bought it about 2 years ago and the price has dropped about 200 bucks since
Porter Cable makes a really nice 4" worm drive Trim saw for about $225-$250. Don't know how it would do for cutting metal. Their bigger worm drives should hold up to what you wanr to do though.
Dick Steflik
Doobie wrote:
The blades are great, Horibull Fright now sells a saw for metal cutting, item
8897-0VGAFYI, was cutting some 3/16 304 SS that I got at Pacific Iron and it does throw some pretty good sparks. Maybe not the right geometry for SS????
Stainless steel is brutal to dry-cut saws. I often use abrasive wheels on stainless because of how fast it dulls my dry-cut blades.
Angle iron from bed frames is terrible too.
What is the recommended depth adjustment for metal cutting blades? Just barely deep enough to completly penetrate or set the saw for as deep as possible? For sheet metal I was thinking fairly shallow, and for thicker plate set the it up more like a dry cut saw--straight in towards the axis.
Cheers!
Because that is hardened and tempered spring steel. Makes good chisels though.
That is about right. On plate you always want to cut through the thinnest section.
Stainless should not be machined with C-5 or C-6 carbide, which is likely near the grade of carbide used in steel cutting blades. Those grades don't hold up any better on a lathe or mill when used on stainless. While it is, in general, a pain to machine, I'm of the opinion that a blade made with a C-2 grade would cut stainless quite well. For sure it makes a big difference when machining. Interestingly, the C-5 or C-6 carbide used on stainless appears to dull prematurely, just as you suggest it does when sawing.
Harold
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