Bought a brand-new hitch ball to replace the dented and cruddy old junky looking thing.
Whilst tightening it with medium force (using a short
1/2" ratchet without a cheater) I managed to strip the nut threads (I think). The thing is now stuck in the bumper and the nut just rotates backwards without unthreading if I attempt to back it off.
Right now, I'm thinking that I will carve a slot up the male thread and cleave the nut in two using an angle grinder and cutting disk.
Grab a chisel or a cheap screwdriver. Drive it between the bumper and the top section of the ball to see if wedging it up some you can get a thread to engage so you can back off the nut.
Yup. I figured I couldn't go wrong with O'Reilly but I figured wrong.
It's positioned up underneath a lip, so I would burn up many, many Mototool discs. Luckily I do have a lifetime supply of them, so I might just do that.
I imagine that the nut is now riding on a gravelly bed of metal shavings. The lock washer is still fully compressed so I don't have a gap to place a chisel.
Could be. That compressed lock washer is probably providing a lot of force axially so I figure if the nut was going to engage and unthread, it would have done it by now. The nut just turns and turns with no movement along the stud axis.
It's real close to the gas tank though. I bet I could notch the nut from the inside surface and smack it off the stud with a chisel and my little sledge.
I suspect the stripped threads have released enough of the pressure. If you can't get a jack under the screw, hook up the trailer and lift its tongue. You may be able to tighten the hitch latch nut enough to keep the ball from turning.
If you have access, try drilling up through the nut on both sides parallel to the screw, with some tape on the bit to mark where to stop short of the bumper. Drills remove metal faster than cutoff wheels and you could pound a tapered punch into the hole to split the nut.
Hell, at least half their stuff is import now, and most US workers in mfg are illegals, so why feel safe?
Lift the ball as you run the impact on the nut. Once you can get a crowbar under the lip of the ball flange, it will start coming off. Just keep constant lift on the ball and it will eat its threads all the way off, making clearance for separation. DAMHIKT, but it was 3 decades ago.
Here's what I use:
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arbor
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cutoff discs
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grinder
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grinder
or the works together for under ten bucks:
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discs for $7 and a buck for Uncle Moonbeam and your total for a new, considerably heavier duty, cutoff system is under $20.
I've never had a HF ball go bad on me, either. YMOV.
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or
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Or go with a guaranteed-to-gall, stainless steel, U.S. made ball:
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for only $45 plus shipping.
Here's better pricing on U.S. balls:
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P.S: Be sure to use anti-seize on the threads. And consider running the nut up and off several times (prior to installation) to remove any handling damage to the threads/burrs/dirt/worker parts.
-- Energy and persistence alter all things. --Benjamin Franklin
The locknut isn't very stiff, comparatively. Use a jack under the stud to raise it, wedge in a couple crowbars, remove the jack, and use the impact to really spin that suckah. She'll separate.
-- Energy and persistence alter all things. --Benjamin Franklin
If the jack under the ball stud doesn't provide room, leave it there and use an open end wrench on the nut. Keep the ball from turning with a pipe wrench if needed. Jack the truck all the way off the wheels if necessary for getting the nut/ball separation.
-- Energy and persistence alter all things. --Benjamin Franklin
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