ASP 46 Carburator

Have you considered using the original carb, and JB Welding it into place?

I have a Fox BB that had the flange broke, and JB Welded the carb in. It is nearly 15 years later, and it still is tight and runs great.

I have not considered JB Weld. Could it still be removed should it need replaced/repaired in the future. I have always considered JB Weld permanant.

After posting here, I heard someone local mention that regular silicone would hold it in place and be strong enough. Any thoughts on that one?

Michael Lewis

I have heard of success with silicone. BTW, I had a problem with the carb on an MVVS 90 and replaced it with a perry carb, WOW, what a difference. I can reccomend perry carbs mk

Most folks don't realize just how good the Perry carbs really are. Get one that is the right size range for good tractability and keep an eye on the two o-rings on the idle disk assembly and you'll have one fine performing engine/carb.

Resist the temptation to put an oversize carb on your engine for more power. You won't get it in a usable fashion anyway, unless your thing is bench running only with the engine and fuel tank always at the same level.

What good is an engine/carb setup that gives you a thousand more rpm on the bench, but which has to be tuned down 1,200 rpm in order to have enough fuel for the engine during maneuvers? It makes no sense to me. I wish the engine manufacturers would realize this and sell their engines with carbs that are optimized for flying conditions, not bench rpm readings. They could advertise this feature by touting that no pump/regulator is needed for normal aerobatic flying (tank mounted close to the engine, right behind the firewall).

Ed Cregger

"Michael L. Lewis" wrote

JB weld is of a more permenant nature, to be sure. As to how permenant, it depends on the type of repair.

If it is sticking two pieces together, like two flat pieces stuck together, where some good shearing or twisting loads can be applied, it could be popped loose, especially if it is somewhat small on surface area. If it were the type of joint where a bolt is stuck into a rod, so all you can apply is a twist, and the surface area is large, yep, it is pretty darn tough.

It is really just a high temperature epoxy, with a high amount of metal solids added, so a lot of heat, as in a propane tourch should soften it to do a lot of good in taking it apart.

My repair was on a Fox, which had a square hole in the top of the crankcase, with a square carb stuck into it. The back side of the hole was busted, nearly off. JB weld worked as a permenant fix, because there is no way you could use a twisting force, since it still had 3 sides of the hole left. I thought that was a "good thing" since I didn't want my carb falling off while I was flying, and I have never had a problem with a Fox carb breaking or wearing out.

Depends on the type of joint, and how much mechanical strength it has without the silicone. If it is just to keep it in place, as in the square in a hole, or rod in a hole, It would probably work. Two flat surfaces, with no fasteners, I doubt it.

One step better would probably be a form-a-gasket type of product. Not RTV, but one of the harder drying types, would be stronger. Ever try to scrape off old gasket material, with that stuff on it? Perhaps one of the exhaust "copper" type products. Still, I would not want to depend on flat surfaces to hold. JB Weld might have shot at holding.