flat workbench

I built a bench based on an RCM article:

Other folks use granite from pool tables or machinists' tables.

Marty

Search your local lumber yards for a damaged interior door. They're perfectly flat, and built specifically not to warp. I got a really big, heavy one for free, along with some damaged sheet rock to lay on top of it for sticking pins into. I'm very happy with the result.

-tih

Try going to

Disposable and sacrificial bit of blue foam is what I use. Comes in use as well for fairings etc.

I dont recommend the interior door idea. Next time at the hardware store take an aluminum level and check those hollow core doors. I used one for awhile when I was starting out and remember having to go through about 15 doors until I found one that had about a 1&1/2 x 2ft section that was flat ! Finally I had a friend build me a table using 1 inch furniture-grade plywood for the frame with two sheets of 3/4" MDF on top. It's flat. ($100 in materials.) Plus if I need to I can replace the top sheet. I've used a few things, cork and foam tacked on for a building surface but still looking for the best material. Anyone have any other ideas ?

Two other good ideas I know of :

Go to IKEA and look at their scratch and dent area. You can get some very good deals on table tops and counter tops there. I just got a scratched table top and 3 pairs of leags for about $40.00. I am using it for my CNC foam cutter table.

I've used ceiling tiles (2' x 4' x 1/2") turned upside down with 3/32" cork

I built a frame maybe just under 3' w at top and 4' w at bottom each end 5' from each other with 2x4 lumber and got a 3'0 x 6'8 x 1-3/4" solid core door from the local hardware emporium (Lowes, Home Depot, Ace). Set that on the frame and with the aluminum straightedge (level) first check level across the frame legs then along the length. Find the high corner and shim the others to match. Use a dry-wall screw long enough to go thru the door, shims and into the 2x4 frame and anchor starting from the high corner. Then I got a 4x8 piece of the 1/2" black fiber sheathing and set that on top of the door...You could use sheet rock, too. The sheathing is a bit rough so I used a big sanding block to smooth a bit..Sheet rock is already smooth..(next time I'll use the rock...) check it all out again with the level and tape your plans and go!

Your kitchen counter also likely has either a formica or melamine cover, which itself will help keep the counter top flat. Further, kitchen counter tops are supported every 24" or so by the framework for the drawers.

I've been the hollow core door route, and it did work for a while. I managed to get two wings built for a 1/3 scale L-4 before the door warped. And I had been sure to support it well along it's length. The problem is that hollow core doors aren't 'happy' unless they are vertical, and there is very little in the structure to keep them flat when placed horizontally.

Considering that I only spent nine bucks on the door due to cosmetic damage, it was a deal.

I just put a new building table into service, and it is undoubtedly the very flattest building surface I've ever had. I also have good reason to expect it to stay flat for at least as long as I am able to build models, hopefully for another few decades.

My new building table is a 2"x6" borgstuff frame and legs with home-made levelers in the bottoms of the legs, and topped by a torsion box.

As was pointed out, the instructions for building a torsion box are available at

For example, the instructions don't mention that every cross piece needs to be glued and _clamped_ before you toe-nail it to the longitudinal members. The instructions also don't say one word about how much "fun" it is to toe-nail MDF with a pneumatic brad nailer.

Trust me, toe-nailing 1/2" MDF with a 1 1/4" brad nailer is no picnic 'cuz unless you get the angle just right, the brads either bounce off the MDF, fold up like a pretzel, or make a U turn and exit right beside the entry point.

Building the torsion box isn't difficult, unless you don't have the ability to rip and crosscut sheet stock, like 4'x8' MDF.

I used 1/2" MDF to make the thing somewhat lighter, and also changed the dimensions to 36"W x 72"L. Other than that, the box goes together just like the instructions indicate.

There are several things to be aware of when building the torsion box, and also when working with MDF. I made a set of notes, and if you decide to build such a beast contact me direct for a copy of those notes.

Cheers, Fred McClellan the dash plumber at mindspring dot com

I am NOT helping you move.

I tried using the 3" thick pink foam, but I noticed that it wasn't trully flat. It was fine for building a 40 size wing, but when working with smaller planes that used thinner balsa they would bend to the shape of the foam.

I haven't looked at the blue foam to see if it's any better. The blue fanfold has ridges which wouldn't make it good for building on.

Where does one get a large sheet of thick glass?

Thanks for the idea, I just checked and there are no stores near me.

Thanks for the heads-up! I'll keep a close eye on mine...

-tih

Dow blue and pink foam are the same thing. The only difference is the pink uses a CFC-free process.

========================================= The manual for the Great Planes PT-60 has plans for the 'door bench'. The frame could be used under any other top surface. Available online

It was expensive, but I got a Great Planes building board when I decided to build a kit. It is 18x48x3/4 balsa glued up like a butcher block. I've had it about 8 months and it is still flat. I have no idea how long it will stay flat. I just toss it on a cheap particle board desk when I need it.

For a workbench, a kitchen countertop mounted on a 2x4 frame with a little cross bracing would be great. Tough, flat, easy to clean. Any size you want. You could toss a building board, ceiling tile, or foam board on it for pinning. Once in a while, cabinet shops or home improvement stores damage a counter top, or have one not picked up, and sell it cheap. A co-worker got a damaged one at Home Depot for $10 that was 6 feet long with about a 4 inch triangle broken off a corner. It is an odd pink color but who cares for that price.

On 10/6/2003 12:17 AM Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge:

I am not being a wise guy - A glass or mirror store. You want at LEAST, "double strength" glass. The PREFERRED (but much more expensive) is "plate" glass.

Look for glass specifically made for tables. It is a safety glass and shatters into small pieces rather than large shards.