How do you program a Tower Pro BMC 15N

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On 30 Sep 2006 01:03:16 -0700, "Conscious Pilot" wrote in :
If these are the instructions, I can tell you how I would procede:
There are three throttle positions used to program the ESC:
UP neutral (middle) DOWN
Here's how you start:
- First, CONNECT the motor and receiver to the speed controller - Turn ON the transmitter. - MOVE throttle stick on full power position (UP Position), - CONNECT battery power to the speed controller
Do nothing for 3 seconds. Then you should hear the "menu options" repeated three times. The period represents a "dot" (short beep) and the hyphen a "dash" (long beep).
.- cell number and type .-- type of braking to be used .--- timing mode .---- PWM
That much is perfectly clear from the directions.
Now comes the guessing game: how do you indicate that you want to program one of these four parameters?
My guess: bring the stick down to neutral after you hear the tone for the desired parameter.
Leave the stick in neutral.
Wait as the ESC beeps its way through the sub-menu. As soon as you hear the right code for what you want, push the throttle stick UP. A long beep will tell you that you have succeeded.
Leave the stick UP.
I can't tell what happens next from the instruction sheet. Does the unit go back to the first menu? Or does it immediately start in on the next set of codes? If I were the author of the software, I'd go back to the main menu. But you can figure this out just by playing with it.
When you've visited all of the sub-menus and set the parameters that you want to set, move the throttle stick DOWN. Wait 1 second for the parameters to be saved. Be careful. When you raise the throttle stick again, chances are that the motor will start. It would be wise either to work without a prop or to have the plane tied down securely so that no blood gets shed in following the learning curve.
Let us know what you learn from experience.
Marty

Your instructions where pretty much spot on and I have created a PDF which I cannot attach. I should Worn however it did not work and I ruined a good LiPO pack.
The cutoff should be 9V for a 3 cell pack the units advertised cutoff is 8.25V. The unit allowed the vlotage to drop lower the it should have even for NiMh pack at 12V. A 10 cell pack should have cut off at 8V.
I am sorry I have wasted my money but this unit is going in the bin.
Don't you hate it when you cannot get proper specs until you open the packet?
Mart> On 30 Sep 2006 01:03:16 -0700, "Conscious Pilot" wrote in

| Your instructions where pretty much spot on and I have created a PDF | which I cannot attach. I should Worn however it did not work and I | ruined a good LiPO pack. | | The cutoff should be 9V for a 3 cell pack the units advertised cutoff | is 8.25V.
Even 2.75 volts/cell shouldn't ruin a LiPo pack -- especially if that was under load, as the voltage will jump back up once the load is gone.
| The unit allowed the vlotage to drop lower the it should have even | for NiMh pack at 12V. A 10 cell pack should have cut off at 8V.
Cutoffs are a nice feature, but they're hardly essential, even for LiPos. When you're down to 3.6 volts/cell or so, your power is way down -- it's quite noticable.
Just stop flying when your power is way down and you shouldn't have any problems. Though I do agree, when you've got a $100+ battery pack, it's well worth it to spend some extra money on the ESC to make sure it won't let you abuse that pack. | I am sorry I have wasted my money but this unit is going in the bin.
Why? At worst, just sell it to somebody else.
| Don't you hate it when you cannot get proper specs until you open the | packet?
Of course.