Sig Koverall - Apply with Stix-It or Dope?

The Sig site says that Koverall can be applied with either Dope or with Stix-It. What are the pros and cons with each method.
Thanks, Andrew
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Can also be applied using ordinary PVA white wood glue. The glue is brushed on and allowed to dry . Stretch material over framework and iron around the wood work first. White glue acts like any other PVA heat sensitive glue and grabs fabric as tightly as balsaloc, dope etc. (Also handy for ironing sheets of balsa together to make light ply fuse doublers). Main advantage in using dope is that if you fly off floats or unintentionally land in the harbour, the dope is waterproof whereas the white glue may soften if water gets into seams from inside (behind the nice paint job) see also "This to That" what glue to use for any application http://www.thistothat.com / see other links at http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~atong/ under "Covering Materials & Instructions" regards Alan T. Alan's Hobby Web Links http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~atong / ..............................................................
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Koverall, unlike Solar Tex or Cover rite, has no adhesive. Stix-it (or Balsa Rite) is painted on the framework prior to attaching the covering.
On the pro side -- once you have painted on the balsa rite or stix-it, you can iron on the cloth much like a plastic covering. Also, should you happen to iron in a wrinkle while covering, just use a heat gun to release the adhesive, and pull the wrinkle out.
On the con side -- you have to apply more of the liquid glue to the covering to make the seams seal down. If you use too much, it could bleed out of the seams or thru the top layer of cloth and react with the paint you use to finish the project.
Using dope (nitrate) to attach the covering, you paint one or two coats on the framework and use another (thinned a bit) coat to attach the cloth. This process is more time consuming, but as additional sealer coats (nitrate again--brushed or sprayed) are applied, they melt into the previous layer.
You can "bury" the seams with multiple coats of dope with either method, and when the paint dries, you can lightly sand the seams to get rid of frayed edges. Once the pores of the cloth are filled with clear dope, you can use whatever type finish color coats over it.
Just remember -- whichever method you elect to use, the adhesives and the paint all emit lots of fumes. Be sure to work in a well-ventilated area. Clean up solvent for the adhesives is acetone and it's also present in the dope thinner so you might want to wear rubber gloves. Acetone is absorbed thru the skin, so read the labels carefully.
Good luck on your project, and Happy Landings
Rich
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I would like to concur with previous postings. I use both methods depending on the location. I think Stik It seams are stronger but harder to keep "neat".
I also use dope to seal it, but I would like to point out that it really shrinks using "ordinary" dope. ( Sorry but only one type of dope is available in hobby shops in Au. The type that thins with acetone and shrinks.) I managed to get some non shrinking dope from a full size plane builder and I use this when too much shrinkage is going to be a problem.
When I dope areas I do so upside down. This is an easy way to avoid runs on the inside and isn't really hard to do. I just use a portable flouro on the floor pointing up for lighting and work from below.
Bob Tomlinson Aussie RC'er and Rugby fanatic
snipped-for-privacy@iinet.net.au
You know what NOT to remove to email.
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Stixit stinks worse than any product I have ever used while dope is at least tolerable. Personally, I think that dope is much easier. Either way, lots of ventilation is the way to go. OTOH, I did my last A/C with water based contact cement and it was the best of all. No smell and cleans up with water. Sticks like there is no tomorrow. Don't know where you are so can't recommend a brand. In Canada it is made by LePage.
I have also used Weldbond with fair success. Gord Schindler MAAC6694

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I've found that STIX-IT works, but it is a bit messy. If you use dope, you must thouroughly finish the surfaces you wish to stick with dope first, otherwise the covering might pull loose when shrunk. Others in this group have recommended using white glue.
Jim - AMA 501383
AMS wrote:

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I used Stixit once on a repair on my Sailaire wing, and it turned a dark purple-brown after a few months, presumably from exposure to sunlight UV rays. You could even see the brush marks. Looked like hell!
I had used nitrate dope to apply the Sig Koverall originally, and three or four coats of straight, unthinned nitrate to fill the weave. I had to re-do the repair on my Sailaire wing, by sanding off the discolored Stixit, and replacing the Koverall patch with nitrate dope.
Anyone else have this problem?
Don Bailey

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