Can also be applied using ordinary PVA white wood glue.
The glue is brushed on and allowed to dry .
Stretch material over framework and iron around the wood work first.
White glue acts like any other PVA heat sensitive glue and grabs fabric as
tightly as balsaloc, dope etc. (Also handy for ironing sheets of balsa
together to make light ply fuse doublers).
Main advantage in using dope is that if you fly off floats or
unintentionally land in the harbour, the dope is waterproof whereas the
white glue may soften if water gets into seams from inside (behind the nice
see also "This to That" what glue to use for any application http://www.thistothat.com /
see other links at http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~atong/ under
"Covering Materials & Instructions"
Alan's Hobby Web Links
Alan's Hobby Web Links
Koverall, unlike Solar Tex or Cover rite, has no adhesive. Stix-it (or Balsa
Rite) is painted on the framework prior to attaching the covering.
On the pro side -- once you have painted on the balsa rite or stix-it, you
can iron on the cloth much like a plastic covering. Also, should you happen
to iron in a wrinkle while covering, just use a heat gun to release the
adhesive, and pull the wrinkle out.
On the con side -- you have to apply more of the liquid glue to the covering
to make the seams seal down. If you use too much, it could bleed out of the
seams or thru the top layer of cloth and react with the paint you use to
finish the project.
Using dope (nitrate) to attach the covering, you paint one or two coats on
the framework and use another (thinned a bit) coat to attach the cloth. This
process is more time consuming, but as additional sealer coats (nitrate
again--brushed or sprayed) are applied, they melt into the previous layer.
You can "bury" the seams with multiple coats of dope with either method, and
when the paint dries, you can lightly sand the seams to get rid of frayed
edges. Once the pores of the cloth are filled with clear dope, you can use
whatever type finish color coats over it.
Just remember -- whichever method you elect to use, the adhesives and the
paint all emit lots of fumes. Be sure to work in a well-ventilated area.
Clean up solvent for the adhesives is acetone and it's also present in the
dope thinner so you might want to wear rubber gloves. Acetone is absorbed
thru the skin, so read the labels carefully.
Good luck on your project, and
I would like to concur with previous postings. I use both methods
depending on the location. I think Stik It seams are stronger but
harder to keep "neat".
I also use dope to seal it, but I would like to point out that it
really shrinks using "ordinary" dope. ( Sorry but only one type of
dope is available in hobby shops in Au. The type that thins with
acetone and shrinks.) I managed to get some non shrinking dope from a
full size plane builder and I use this when too much shrinkage is
going to be a problem.
When I dope areas I do so upside down. This is an easy way to avoid
runs on the inside and isn't really hard to do. I just use a portable
flouro on the floor pointing up for lighting and work from below.
Aussie RC'er and Rugby fanatic
You know what NOT to remove to email.
Stixit stinks worse than any product I have ever used while dope is at least
tolerable. Personally, I think that dope is much easier. Either way, lots
of ventilation is the way to go. OTOH, I did my last A/C with water based
contact cement and it was the best of all. No smell and cleans up with
water. Sticks like there is no tomorrow. Don't know where you are so can't
recommend a brand. In Canada it is made by LePage.
I have also used Weldbond with fair success.
I've found that STIX-IT works, but it is a bit messy. If you use dope,
you must thouroughly finish the surfaces you wish to stick with dope
first, otherwise the covering might pull loose when shrunk. Others in
this group have recommended using white glue.
Jim - AMA 501383
I used Stixit once on a repair on my Sailaire wing, and it turned a
dark purple-brown after a few months, presumably from exposure to
sunlight UV rays. You could even see the brush marks. Looked like
I had used nitrate dope to apply the Sig Koverall originally, and
three or four coats of straight, unthinned nitrate to fill the weave.
I had to re-do the repair on my Sailaire wing, by sanding off the
discolored Stixit, and replacing the Koverall patch with nitrate dope.
Anyone else have this problem?
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