Spad airplanes

Diluant a peinture. Buy it at Home Depot, Building Box, Rona or Revy. Gord Schindler MAAC6694

well strictly NOT turpentine, since that comes from natural organic, rather than mineral sources...:-)

White spirit?

I have prepared coroplast for gluing with CA with both the mineral spirits and the propane torch method.

IMHO, the propane torch method is MUCH faster AND cleaner than trying to scrub with mineral spirits. It takes about 5 seconds to flash a 1" x 30" area for gluing a trailing edge - mineral spirits takes at least

60 seconds, and stinks up your shop ! I found that the key to 'torch flashing' is to position the coroplast so you are looking at light reflected from the surface you with to flash.

David

Windex works just as well as all the other post mentioned. Make your own;

Put in a gallon jug; Like the kind milk is sold in.

That is Kerosene....

What's wrong with Acetone? I've only built one SPAD, but Acetone worked better than ANY of the other suggestions I tried. It worked better than Windex, Methyl Alcohol, or a butane torch (didn't have propane handy). My sample peices were torn to shreds when I tried to pull them apart, but the glue never let go.

Strato911

Acetone will remove the surface oils and release agents from Coroplast, but use it sparingly, and only where its use will be unseen, as it WILL dull the finish...

Cheers,

Sure it'll dull the finish - that's why it holds. CA cannot penetrate coroplast like it does with wood. Therefore, the only way it can hold is to provide a rough surface (non-shiny) to cling to. The torch method dulls it too, but it requires significant trial & error. Acetone is almost foolproof.

I used 2 inch by 2 inch sample pieces and one drop of CA to perform destructive testing to identify which method worked best for me. Acetone significantly out-performed the torch method in both holding strength, and ease of application.

Dennis aka Strato911