Storage length for fuel?

I have flown fuel that was at least seven years old, but was stored in the cardboard cases, at a constant temp and with no sunlight in my basement. You couldn't tell it from freshly made fuel.

Ed Cregger

This has been stored in an outside shed with no sunlight. Maybe the engine needs a bit more running or I got the mixture wrong! I'll try leaning it out a bit more.

cheers, Len

Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge:

Fuel that is stored UNOPENED in a stable temperature (50 - 70 degrees is ideal) and out of direct sun, should be good almost indefinitely.

It is when you break the seal on the container, or store it at temps above or below those stated, or in the sunlight (varying opinions on this) that the life of the fuel shortens.

Breaking of the seal will shorten the life span the quickest, followed by temperature extremes.

As with anything man made, all you need is a small leak in the seal. Any fuel stored over a year I suggest running a tank through the engine on the ground (or in a test stand) prior to flying with it.

Ah, not on a concrete floor in a plastic bottle? If that is the case then it could have picked up quite a bit of water - enough to cause engine tuning problems, but first have you changed the plug in the motor for a fresh one?

Chris

Not stored on concrete BUT it had been opened so I'm guessing it's downgraded over time. Not worth losing a plane over a gallon of fuel so down to the disposal site and then to the shop for some new! Thanks all.

cheers, Len

Can be almost indefinite subject to storage container and conditions. For full details refer to = Alan's Hobby, Model & RC Web Links

Byron Fuels - mfg plant etc Castor vs Synthetic - FHS (Red Max) recommendations. FUELS - John Modistach Fuels - Brian Hampton Fuel - 2 Str & 4 Str commercial mixtures Fuel Safety Alert - RC Fuel system - set up multiple tanks for Jet, Heli etc. Fuel system - set up one tank multi engine or one engine multi tank. Fuel system - How to install header tank in Pusher aircraft - email Alan for jpg. Fuel system - How to install a Heli header tank Klotzlube.com - Glo Fuel Blending Chart Morgan Fuels = Home brews, Cool Power, Omega etc. Nitromethanol, and/or RC Fuel Oil test comparisons Powermaster Hobby Products Inc. Powermaster - 2st vs 4st fuels - is there a difference? Powermaster - What is the Oil Content_ Powermaster - Which Oil is Better- Synthetic or Castor_ Nitromethane, The Mystery Ingredient Storing Fuel for Maximum shelf life RC Nitro Engines - Fuel properties Tech Charts - J Modistach Water in Fuel - test results and effects Wildcat

Regards Alan T. Alan's Hobby, Model & RC Web Links

On Sun, 30 Apr 2006 17:25:12 GMT, Len Cuff wrote in :

I ran fuel that is two or three years old the last three days at the field.

It seemed to work OK.

I'm sure there is less nitro in it now than when it was new.

YMMV.

Marty

Len,

If you are breaking in a new engine, make an effort to use fuel you are sure of and that conforms to engine manufacture recommendations. Leaning out the mixture may not solve your problem if the fuel is bad and could damage the engine, especially during break-in.

Fred

HAHAHA YOU GUYS ARE "FUEL OF IT" OK seriously, how many laughed at that one....? by a show of hands.... well , ok now that i'm done with comedy(hopefully for good) while we are on fuel... i saw in the LHS(can't stay out of the place lately) I saw a whole display of fragrances that you add to your fuel. Has anyone tried these? are they good for the engine? dangerous? not good? I resisted, marched out of the store and then ran back before the door closed and said "i'll have one bottle of rootbeer" left $4 poorer.... should i use this stuff? or give it to some one else and watch HIS plane crash..take it as a "gotcha" I have to admit it does smell good... I use mostly OS ENGINES .25's and 46's and a .61 in my lancair... the fuel i use is OMEGA GREEN COOL POWER 15% which is supposed to have less of that "nitrooilyness"anyway.... thanks..

Gig and everyone....my LHS had some of that stuff...I chose the "bubble gum" scent and it really works...not strong but kinda masks the burned oil smell...doesn't seem to effect performance or the engine at all....and .as for Cool Power. I do not use any fuel like that green cool power unless it is a castor blend. Surely you know that if you get a lean run with all sysnthetic fuel, you will lose some essential lubricant and your engine life will be reduced. I have engines that are thirty years and older and when run, then and now, I always use the castor blend (if you use Morgan's, try the Omega) If I happen to inherit some cool power or other all synthetic fuel, I add about two ounces of castor oil...I get a cooler running engine and a better idling one...well, as they say...you pays your money you takes your choice. For what it is worth, without starting a running battle with those who use all synthetic oil, I am an old old timer and have been running gas and glow engines for over

Despite all the stories about old fuel I know someone who has been using old fuel in his engine for ages. Current age of his stockpile is 10+ years. It runs great in all his aircraft engines but won't light up a Thunder Tiger engine in his EK4 monster truck.

I've even used some when my supply ran out. Runs fine but then I'm hesitant to use it.

Storage is nothing special, full original containers (someone elses brewed fuel) kept in his garage.

my kind of joke. :) MK

What the heck does a concrete floor have to do with it? Water can't go through the plastic jug, floor or no floor.

Why did you pick those temperatures? Since the fuel will not vaporize and have very little evaporation below 50 degrees, it would be better to store below that temp. That way it may be good if the seal is broken. If the seal is not broken I don't see why it could not be stored at 100 degrees, at least for a few months each year.

Hey Gig, go to RCUniverse and look in the engines, fuel forum. Fuelman who owns and runs Cooper fuels says that the fuel will last indefinately as long as the seal is good.

The concrete floor does a crap job of insulating the container (whatever it is made from) from the ground temperature so cooling the container and creating a vacuum inside which will tend to draw air and moisture into the container.

Concrete is porous so if it's been raining or the ground is damp (hint: this usually happens during winter) it is likeley to be damp.You may not be able to see the moisture but the concrete's humidity will be a lot higher and if the fuel container is at ground level then it will be sat in that cooler damper air.

Fuel in a plastic container will adsorb air and moisture very easily; especialy if it has had its seal broken, I speak from personal experience of fuel going off faster in plastic containers rather than metal ones.

SO to store fuel properly, keep it in a cool dark AND dry place and keep it factory sealed. E.G.on a shelf away from any direct sunlight.

Chris

The container doesn't need insulation, it is impermeable (that means air and water cannot go through the container). Cooler is better at any rate.

Most housing codes require a vapor barrier to be installed under the slab, doesn't mean the contractor did it though. .

Again the plastic is impermeable, so this doesn't matter.

Must have had a hole or loose cap.

It only adsorbs water that it comes in contact with, so it cannot get moisture which is located outside of the jug.

That's true, but you can also store it safely on a concrete floor.

Those are the temps that were suggested to me to minimize any accumulation of moisture (humidity ) in the containers.

The way it was explained to me was that much under 50 degrees condensation begins to form inside the container and that much over 70 any condensation will go into vapor and condense back into water once the temperature gets between 50 and 70.

I realize there isn't that much airspace inside a sealed container for condensation to form, but for a long term storage why chance getting water in the fuel to begin with.