brick on tower

Michael, or anybody.
how would YOU do brick hatch on a round tower?

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
It depends on the scale and the rest of the drawing. On a *fully* rendered drawing at about 1:50 or larger I might:
1) draw the u/s of each course 2) draw the round plan form above/below the elevation (make sure it is an "open" arc) 3) MEASURE the arc at the length of bricklength+joint 4) Using an extra fine pen draw lines from the points up/down to the horizontals, and trim them all to one course high 5) LENGTHEN>>DELTA all the verticals by a bed depth, shortening them from the top (using FENCE option) 6) array the verticals vertically to suit 7) trim the starting end of the original arc by 1/2*(bricklength+joint) 8) repeat above to another (alternating) course 9) array as required.
Use your judgment on how much to do. You have to balance the weight of the parts of an elevation to sell the design. This could look too heavy unless the entire thing is rendered to the same extent. You could also calculate the length of a brick and substitute appropriately broken lines for the continuous horizontals in 1) above to earn extra brownie points. To do this you could array alternating large an small circles around the arc for brick and joint lengths.
A looser approach is to do a bit of 1), all of 2) & 3), and only do a bit of 4, keeping it selective.
--
(above assumes the tower doesn't taper)

MichaelB
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------050908090802000600000204 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
thanks, I hear you. tapered tower, leave it to you to make it worse...
I am only serving a tightwad client, and working through another "firm" which has no intrest in me getting paid. find it hard to justify anything more than my own personal standards, as I have quite a bit of work I will get full price for.
check this out.
think I will create two new linetypes with 4" on and 4" off. use them for the vertical lines. setting the ucs so the bottom is right. alternate the two linetypes. terse description, I know, but I think the reader is good at getting the picture. then just do the trig for the offset spacing and ajust to a narrower pen as I get close to the edge....
wait a minute, instead of MEASURE maybe I DIVIDE, use a line, and DO NOT ROTATE. never tried that. hmm.
I did not mention, the tower has windows stair stepping up as they go round. stone below and brick above with a break line stair stepping with the windows. I EXPECT TO HAVE TO EDIT THIS LATER. so the linetype investment I think will pay as it should be easier to edit. ( I hope )
if they were not tightwads who had instructed me to save $ through an intermediary, I would do it 3d and be done. those windows are, of course, archtops and I have had to inset all those carn-sarned ellipses. I am no good with ellipses.....
will let you know how it comes out. many thanks.
Michael Bulatovich wrote:

--------------050908090802000600000204 Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> <html> <head> <meta content="text/html;charset=ISO-8859-1" http-equiv="Content-Type"> <title></title> </head> <body bgcolor="#ffffff" text="#000000"> <font face="Arial">thanks, I hear you.<br> tapered tower, leave it to you to make it worse...<br> <br> I am only serving a tightwad client, and working through another "firm" which has no intrest in me getting paid.<br> find it hard to justify anything more than my own personal standards, as I have quite a bit of work I will get full price for.<br> <br> check this out.<br> <br> think I will create two new linetypes with 4" on and 4" off. use them for the vertical lines. setting the ucs so the bottom is right.<br> alternate the two linetypes. terse description, I know, but I think the reader is good at getting the picture.<br> then just do the trig for the offset spacing and ajust to a narrower pen as I get close to the edge....<br> <br> wait a minute, instead of MEASURE maybe I DIVIDE, use a line, and DO NOT ROTATE. never tried that. <br> hmm.<br> <br> I did not mention, the tower has windows stair stepping up as they go round. stone below and brick above with a break line<br> stair stepping with the windows. I EXPECT TO HAVE TO EDIT THIS LATER.&nbsp; so the linetype investment I think will pay as<br> it should be easier to edit. ( I hope )<br> <br> if they were not tightwads who had instructed me to save $ through an intermediary, I would do it 3d and be done.<br> those windows are, of course, archtops and I have had to inset all those carn-sarned ellipses. I am no good with ellipses.....<br> <br> will let you know how it comes out.<br> many thanks.<br> <br> <br> Michael Bulatovich wrote:</font>
<pre wrap=""><font face="Arial">It depends on the scale and the rest of the drawing. On a *fully* rendered drawing at about 1:50 or larger I might:
1) draw the u/s of each course 2) draw the round plan form above/below the elevation (make sure it is an "open" arc) 3) MEASURE the arc at the length of bricklength+joint 4) Using an extra fine pen draw lines from the points up/down to the horizontals, and trim them all to one course high 5) LENGTHEN&gt;&gt;DELTA all the verticals by a bed depth, shortening them from the top (using FENCE option) 6) array the verticals vertically to suit 7) trim the starting end of the original arc by 1/2*(bricklength+joint) 8) repeat above to another (alternating) course 9) array as required.
Use your judgment on how much to do. You have to balance the weight of the parts of an elevation to sell the design. This could look too heavy unless the entire thing is rendered to the same extent. You could also calculate the length of a brick and substitute appropriately broken lines for the continuous horizontals in 1) above to earn extra brownie points. To do this you could array alternating large an small circles around the arc for brick and joint lengths.
A looser approach is to do a bit of 1), all of 2) &amp; 3), and only do a bit of 4, keeping it selective. </font></pre> </blockquote> </body> </html>
--------------050908090802000600000204--
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If they get really tall they just *have* to taper.

The problem with that is the way acad generates dashed lines...you'll have to start them at different places to get the dashes to line up, and never change your LTSCALE. ( it doesn't have anything to do with the UCS.)
ARRAY is pretty powerful and quick. Did you know you can pick two points to enter the row height/column distance in that command? I do that to draw stairs in section...draw one, orient UCS to the "nosing line" and ARRAY.

I often do that with a block containg one line. You then explode and trim. I didn't mention it as I already went past quota for words...
DR. Fleau's suggestion is in synch with my other suggestion about keeping it loose. It really depends on the drawing.
--


MichaelB
www.michaelbulatovich.ca
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Michael Bulatovich wrote:

yes, roy was being silly again. I knew that at some le

I don't use ARRAY for all it will do. I do something similar with mulls in windows.

what I ended up doing was use the measure command and extending lines from the nodes. it worked. it was quite tedious trimming out from those archtop windows with the brick soldier. BUT IT SURE LOOKS GOOD.
however, the stone hatch on the same tower below the brick...... the "correct" 3d effect for the brick kind of highlights the fact that the stone hatching is VERY 2d. to my eye. the client will probably never notice either one.
thanks guys.
roy
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
For the next skewed (not round) job, I'll pass on a hatching trick....
Say you are hatching a building elevation that has some sides at different angles to the page. You can:
create a BOUNDARY for the hatchable area make a block of it insert it in another place with scale factor of 1/sine(skew angle) in the plane of the skew hatch it Make a block of the hatch insert the hatch in the position where the boundary pline was made use a scale factor of sin(skew angle) in the plane of the skew
The hatch will "recede" along the skewed face. If you really want the hatches to line up as you go around the faces of the building,you can make a 'necklace' of plines representing the adjacent planes of the elevation to be hatched, differentially scaling the skewed ones as above, and hatch them all while adjacent. Make blocks of the skewed ones as above, and move the orthogonal hatches to where they belong. Insert the skewed ones as above, and the hatch will appear to bend around the corners and "stack up" or "recede" along the skewed faces.
I did this on a cottage a long time ago now, and put a PDF on the web illustrating it @
www.michaelbulatovich.ca/4MILEALL.pdf
It's not perfect, but shows the potential
--


MichaelB
www.michaelbulatovich.ca
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On a 2D dwg, I would typically create an irregular closed polyline, Hatch it, erase the polyline and copy resulting "naked" hatch a few times along the tower. The eye makes up for what's missing. I am a stickler for things well done, but I hate nitpicking over tidbits and such.
If I HAD to hatch a circular section, length-wise, I would use the sheet-metal technique of a semi-circle separated in equal parts (using rays) and bringing down vertical lines alongside the cylinder. Draw 2 full sections, copy the rest as a block. Change the block, the whole tower changes.
But then again, that's just me.
Dr Fleau

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
roy wrote:

just for fun, same job has chevrons in random placement. I kind of hate it when I am commisioned to do "art" because they never tell me enough detail to get it right the first time. I have to guess, have them tell me it's horrid, and start over.
suddenly, when they can see my first guess, they know just exactly where the random placements should have been - exactly.
made a chevron from 8 "bricks" , made regions out of them, and made it a block. then I give the block a positive elevation and copy it around "artfully". I hideplot when printing and never edit the brick hatching behind it. when the ladies don't like where "the draftsman" put the chevrons, all I need do is move them around.
I hate rehatching.
back to the slave mines. don't work too hard guys.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.